Know Why You’re Buying a Suit

Are you getting married? Are you going to start interviewing for a job? Do you just like the way a suit looks? Picture yourself in the circumstance that will require you to be in a suit. What suit “fits” the situation? A suit is a tool. And knowing what tool is used for what job can go a long way.

Choose Your Color: Solid Navy or Solid Grey, in all-season Wool

Notice you get to choose a color but not a fabric. For your first suit, you’ll be getting one made out of an all season wool. (Unless this suit is to be worn at a mid-afternoon wedding at the equator in summer. Then, consider linen.) Wool is the king of fabrics. It’s durable. It breathes. It drapes nicely. It’s naturally wrinkle resistant. So, get something that’s mid to lightweight and feels decently smooth in your hands. Skip the heavy flannels, or tweeds, or chino, or linen, or blends, or (heaven forbid) synthetics. You want a basic wool.

For your first suit, pick navy or charcoal. For your second suit, get the other.
Both suits shown above are a 40R in Spier and Mackay’s contemporary fit on 5’10″/185.

For the color, navy is more style forward (you can wear lighter brown shoes with it). Charcoal is more sober and conservative (perfect for job interviews). Medium grey? That can work too. But navy or charcoal won’t let you down.

Know how often you’ll wear it

Will it be worn a few times a year? A few times a month? If you’ll be wearing it frequently (say, a few times a month) then you’ll want to go with a suit that has a half canvas construction (at least $300 and up). They’re more durable, and are almost always made with higher quality materials and better attention to detail. If it’ll be in the closet for all but a few nights a year, a fused suit (usually cheaper than half canvas) should be fine. Here’s a list of both fused and half-canvas suit brands that are worth your attention.

Like wearing suits for the heck of it? Invest in half-canvas.
Suit shown above: J. Crew’s Crosby fit.

Know the risks of Buying in Person

Buying a suit is like buying a car. There are some tremendously helpful salespeople, and there are some tremendously terrible salespeople. And some will try and pressure you into buying something they think works on you, instead of listening to what you want. Also, not everyone has access to brick and mortar locations for some of the more popular, best value brands out there (say, Suitsupply).

Know the risks of Buying Online

Shipping and returns can be a pain, and depending on the company, costly. You can’t try it on before you hand over cash. There’s no free, basic alterations (although some stores/brands offer this). Online pictures can sometimes be deceptive in terms of the true fit and color of the fabric.

“It’s my suit in a box!“

Know how sizing works

Nested Suits: These suits have what’s called a “drop”. A suit’s drop is the inch difference between the suit jacket size and the pant waist measurement. So a 40R suit with a 6″ drop comes with trousers that have a 34″ waist (40 – 6 = 34). Prioritize jacket fit. A tailor can bring in the pant waist by an inch or two if need be.

Suit Separates: You purchase a jacket and matching pants separately, and in the process, get to choose what size fits you best. This is good for guys who don’t fall within the usual “drop” zones. Say, someone with a barrel chest but a thin waist. That fella can get a 44 jacket, and a 32 pant, if he so chooses.

Custom: You get measured, they make the suit for your specs. The only option for those with extra unique proportions. I helped a pal buy a suit for his wedding once. He’s 6’0″ with a 38″ chest and, wait for it, 37″ sleeves. Dude’s got some lonnng arms for his torso size. He went with Black Lapel and the suit turned out great. But that’s not always the case with online custom suit makers, of which there are a ton. Make sure you’re familiar with their return/exchange/remake policy before diving in.

Know some tricks to figure out if it’s a good fit

Put on the jacket and lean your shoulder into a wall. Does the shoulder pad strike first? That’s not good. Does your shoulder and the pad strike at the same time? That’s good. More tricks here, and, here’s what you should prioritize in terms of what absolutely has to fit, and what can be just in the ballpark.

Not boxy. Not tight. Just right. Sleeves have been shortened here, but that’s it.

Get an extra set of trusted eyes on board

Have a well dressed pal? Do you want to look great in a suit for a significant other? Get their opinion on how the suit looks on you before leaving the store and/or taking the tags off at home and committing to the purchase. They might see something you’d otherwise miss, or, you might be overthinking something that they can then set your mind at ease about.

Know what can and cannot be adjusted by a tailor

You need to know this before setting foot in a store. A tailor can’t shave down the thickness of the shoulder pads, bring in the pants by more than an inch or two, change the width of the lapels, or lengthen the jacket (and shortening a jacket can go wrong in a hurry… best not to mess with it). BUT… here’s a few common alterations you might want done post purchase:

Common alterations many men have done post suit purchase.

Stick with the basics when it comes to design details

Don’t get flashy and weird with your first suit. Get something timeless. A single breasted, two button jacket with notch lapels that are between 2.5″ – 3.5″ wide won’t be out of style any time soon, if ever. Same goes for flat front trousers. Avoid bulky shoulder pads and lower armholes that restrict movement.

Know how to store it, and care for it, post purchase

When not in use, hang your suit jacket on a wide shouldered hanger and the pants on a decently wide (meaning not wire) pant hanger (yes, most wide shouldered hangers come with a built in pant bar). Keep it in a garment bag… a breathable one if possible. And don’t dry clean the thing with every use. In fact, dry clean as little as possible (like, if it stinks/is stained). Dry cleaning can be extremely harsh, and crummy dry cleaners can sometimes over cook a jacket, causing the fusing of the jacket to liquefy and resettle into unsightly ripples and bumps. Consider purchasing a steamer, and using that to freshen up your suit / release wrinkles when necessary.

Two button, Notch lapel, flat front pants. Pretty timeless.
Suit is by Bonobos (albeit their cheaper, discontinued “foundation” line)

TL;DR Version:

For a first suit, most will want an all season wool, navy (more stylish) or charcoal (more conservative/sober), notch lapel, two button suit with minimal shoulder padding and flat front trousers hemmed to a medium break. Whether off the rack or by way of a tailor, you’ll want the fabric to skim your frame while not restricting movement or comfort. Trim is not tight. Loose is not trim. You’ll know it when you both see and feel it. Invest in a half-canvas construction (or hell, full) if you’re going to wear it a ton. Fused should be fine for those who only wear a suit a few times a year. And whatever you do, don’t over dry clean the thing.

Also (very much) Related: 

The Best Suits Under $500 – Four Brands that Deliver

Good fabrics. Good fits. From $300 – $500. Bang-for-the-buck brands for suiting up on a budget.

In Review: Spier and Mackay $348 Red Label Suits

Wedding or not, here they come. In person with Spier’s new half-canvas, all wool, $348 suit line.

20 Reasons for a guy to dress well when he doesn’t have to (or want to)

Because dressing up is getting rarer and rarer. And sometimes we plain don’t want to. Here’s 20 reasons to give it a go all the same.

Buying an inexpensive suit:  The Complete Dappered Guide

Above Suit:  Alfani RED Grey Sharkskin Slim Fit- $274.98 (but can be had for as little as $200)

A lot of these tips have been spread throughout this website, dropped in here and there with reckless abandon.  It’s time to get it all in one place.  For those who have visited Dappered with some frequency in the past, much of this will look familiar.  If you’re a newbie, know that all this “advice” comes from personal experience, by way of doing the opposite.  Here’s to hoping you’ve avoided some of the many mistakes I’ve made in the past…

Most men hate dressing up.  They’ve been told since they were knee high to a clearance rack that a suit is uncomfortable.  Most guys truly believe they look stupid in a suit.  Plus suits are so expensive, why should they invest that much cash in something they’ll hate wearing?

Sorry fellas.  Those are all lame excuses.  The truth is a man can buy a suit that he’ll look great in, and more importantly feel great about wearing, all for less than $300.  Sometimes for even cheaper than that.  It’s just a matter of knowing a few key tricks for picking out a suit, then what to do with it after the purchase.  Follow these few suggestions and a $250 suit will look better than some CEO’s $1500 luxury getup.  Here’s how to do it:

It’s all about fit.  Make sure you’re buying the right size.

The vast majority of suit wearing men are wearing suit jackets that are at least a size too big.  Guys, repeat after me: You are wearing the suit.  The suit is not wearing you.  Convinced you’re a 40 regular in the jacket?  Just try a 38.  You might be surprised.  What you don’t want is a jacket so big that the shoulder pads jut out over your actual shoulders.  Here’s an old trick:  Put the jacket on and stand next to a wall.  Slowly lean into the wall with your shoulder.  The pad and your shoulder should hit at the same time.  If the pad hits the wall first then scrunches up?  It’s too big.

If you’re anywhere close to being in shape, you need to be buying “trim fit” or “athletic cut” suits.  Those usually come pre contoured at the sides of the jacket, and will often have less shoulder padding.  Both of those features will give you a natural, masculine V-shape.  Normal suits will leave you looking like you’re stuck inside a barrel of cloth.  Don’t let the sales person try and talk you into a bigger suit.  They’re used to the types who believe comfort = loose.  It needs to fit, and after tailoring it’ll move with you.  More on that later.

Know your fabrics and brands

Stick with natural fabrics like wool.  Skip polyester which is almost always cheaper.  Wool moves better and is much more breathable than plasticized poly fabric.  Some brands like Kenneth Cole make their suits in both wool and synthetic.  Always check the tags, and stick with wool.

Also know that every brand is slightly different.  A 40 regular in a Tommy Hilfiger Trim Fit from Macy’s might actually be a 40 short in an Alfani Red.  Both available at the same department store, but different shapes once you put them on.  And stick with brands that seem to cater towards a younger (meaning under 40) audience.  So along with Alfani Red and Hilfiger, give Calibrate (Nordstrom), and DKNY a spin.

If you want to splurge a bit and get a suit custom made for you?  Take a look at Indochino.  They’re a custom suit company that makes suits for around $250 – $500.  Plus they pay up to $75 worth of extra alterations done by your tailor, and they’ve got an iron-clad guarantee.  Whatever your choice, skip the boxy Ralph Laurens and Jos. A Bank suits your Grandpa favors.

Go to the store prepared

When you head out to go suit shopping, make sure you’re wearing what you plan on wearing with a suit.  Meaning:  A pair of dress shoes, your favorite dress shirt, and a great looking tie.  The fitting room is a dress rehearsal for your potential suit.  You want to see what it’ll look like after the purchase.

Don’t be shy about bringing a friend or significant other with you.  You need an honest opinion to balance out the sales guy who will be in your ear from the start.  The sales person might honestly be trying to help, but more often than not they just get in the way.

After the Purchase:  Get it tailored.  It’s absolutely crucial.

Even if you bought a trim fit suit with extra contouring at the sides, you’ll need to get it tailored post-purchase.  Your suit is like your hair.  You need a professional who knows what they’re doing to give it the right shape.  Like wearing a jacket that’s too large, most men believe that suits fit perfect right off the rack.  Not true. You should at the very least consider having the jacket sides brought in a bit more and the sleeve length adjusted so you’re showing ¼ inch of shirt cuff.

Be warned:  a tailor can’t adjust the thickness of the shoulder pads, and shortening a jacket is a pretty messy job.  So get those two things right off the rack.  To see if the jacket is the right length, leave your arms loose at your sides and curl your fingers upward like you’re about to grab the handles on a wheel-barrow.  The jacket should end precisely in that valley in your fingers.  If it bunches up?  It’s too long.

Treat your inexpensive suit carefully

There’s a reason why a cheap suit is cheap.  It cost less to make from materials that aren’t super high quality.  After you get it tailored, store your suit in a breathable garment bag so dust and fabric munching bugs can’t get at it.  Also make sure the jacket is hanging on a wide shouldered hanger.  Gravity.  She’s a cruel force.  And if the hanger your suit jacket is on is a standard thin plastic or (good grief no) wire hanger, the shoulder pads will pinch, crease, and droop down over it.

Know that there’s no need to cut the pockets on the front of your suit jacket open.  If you like wearing a pocket square, then go ahead with the chest pocket.  But the lower pockets should stay closed.  That’ll help your jacket keep it’s shape.

Dry clean your suit as little as possible.  If you didn’t sweat in your suit, then don’t have it cleaned.  Unlike expensive suits which have a third piece in-between the exterior and interior layer of fabric (called a canvas) cheap suits are usually “fused” or glued together.  The harsh heat of the dry cleaning process will often melt the glue and cause ugly wrinkles to form as the glue settles back into uneven clumps.

Do cut the brand label off the sleeve if there is one.  It’s not like the label on the back of your Levi’s.  So the maker’s mark has to go.

What else?  Leave any other tips for cheap suit buying in the comments section below.

From the Mailbag: How should a suit jacket fit your butt?

To: joe@dappered.com
Subject: How your suit should fit… your butt.

I went to Macy’s and tried on the 42R Alfani Red blue pinstripe jacket, thought it was fitting great, and then a woman randomly walked up and told me the jacket didn’t fit me because it was too tight across the butt. The saleswoman agreed with her and wanted me to try a size up, which I didn’t do. Instead, I left the store, confused and annoyed.

Now I’ve got two questions: Do you think “tightness across the butt” is an important element in fitting a suit jacket?  I’ve never seen this element mentioned in any of the online guides I’ve been reading, but the women in the store thought it was important.

My problem is that I have fairly athletic upper body, but as Soulja Boy would say: I “got a donk.”  So I don’t know what to do about this.  I feel like anything that fits my upper body well will show my butt too much and there isn’t much I can do about that.  My second question is: should I buy a regular fit suit and have my tailor bring it way in?  Are there any disadvantages to this?

Thanks…

– Yakov

———————————————————————————————————————————————————–

To: Yakov
Subject: Re: How your suit should fit… your butt.

Yakov:

First of all:  What kind of person walks up to a guy that they don’t know, and tells him: “Hey… I think your jacket is too tight across your ass.”  (Update: Yakov says it was a 60-year-old woman) The fact that this random woman did this leads me to believe that her opinion on your suit jacket is wrong.  Because she’s a whack job.  And whack jobs rarely have a good handle on how a suit should fit.

But on the slim chance that she’s one of the few whack jobs out there with a decent sense of style, let’s get back to your original question.  I honestly have never thought about how my butt looks when I put on a suit jacket.

Salespeople and the vast majority of the public think men should only wear classic American Sack Suits.  I don’t know why this is the case, but, these are the suits that literally make you look like you’re wearing a burlap sack.  They have NO shape to them, whatsoever.  What you want is tapering at the waist no matter what angle you’re being seen from.  Check out the lines of this guy’s silhouette, in the J. Crew Ludlow Worsted Wool Suit:

Do you think that woman would think this guy would need to put on a bigger size jacket?  He looks terrific.  How do you think she’d react to the fitting points of our guide to buying a suit?  If you go with a non athletic-fit suit and have it brought in, keep an eye on the shoulder pads.  They might fit lengthwise, but often times more traditional fit suits have really thick (meaning tall) pads.  You could end up resembling a linebacker. So to answer your second question, there could be some disadvantages there.

If you do want to pick up a more classic fit suit and have it brought way in, try a more stylish, modern brand like DKNY or Alfani.  Their shoulder pads shouldn’t be as hefty as say, a Ralph Lauren.  Also, if you’ve got the cash, J. Crew’s Aldridge cut might be worth looking into.  It’s a more classic shape (and thus, more room in the rear), but has modern details like slimmer lapels.

Good luck, and the next time a random stranger offers up unsolicited style advice, feel free to give them a gentle kick in their “donk.”

– Joe

So allow me to throw this out there.  Has anyone else ever heard of eyeing up the tighntess across the butt when measuring the fit of a suit ?  Because I never have…

*Jacket Shown in Top Graphic = J. Crew Ludlow Irish Linen Suit – $390.00