About the Author: Adam Terry is a thirtysomething salesman in the construction industry. He enjoys whiskey, watches, boots/shoes, family time, and working on his dad bod father figure.

Here at Dappered, we appreciate good footwear and feel that they are the cornerstone of a well-curated outfit. The right pair of shoes can complete your outfit and help elevate it to another level. Whether that’s the perfect pair of dress Oxfords to pair with your expertly tailored suit, or your favorite pair of leather boots to wear with a button-down flannel and well-worn jeans. Either way, choosing the right pair of shoes for the right outfit can help us look better. When we look better, we feel better. After spending a lot of time and effort researching for that perfect pair of shoes, we then invest our hard earned dollarbucks to bring them home. So, it makes perfect sense that we should also be looking after our investments and making sure that they last as long as possible and maximize the value for our money. Proper shoe care can be divided up into five somewhat related categories – protection, cleaning, conditioning, storage, and repair. Let’s dive in and discuss each layer.

(Side note – today we’ll be discussing basic shoe care routines and products that should cover the large majority of folks out there with calfskin or suede dress shoes, leather boots, basic sneakers, etc. We won’t be covering specialty leather goods made with ostrich, snakeskin, horse/cordovan, etc. as those are more specialized and care tends to be a little more involved. Also, be sure to test new products in inconspicuous spots as some may darken the leather.)

Protect

• Calfskin, suede, and other dressy leathers: Saphir Invulner spray  – $34
• Sneakers and rain boots: Tarrago’s Nano Protector w/ silicone – $17
• For heavy duty protection: Saphir’s Everest Graisse/Grease $16

Generally speaking, smooth leather dress shoes and smooth leather boots do not need any pre-adventure protection when they’re fresh out of the box. Leather is a naturally robust material and many of the leathers we encounter are inherently weather resistant thanks to the tanning and finishing processes. With that said, you may want to take some preventative measures if you plan on wearing them in harsh weather conditions, or you want to keep your suede like new.

High quality spray on products like Saphir’s Invulner use resin to create a waterproof layer on top but still allows for the leather to breathe. This is ideal for calfskin, suede, and other high quality or dressy leather shoes (as shown above on a pair of Dappered Editor Joe’s well loved Allen Edmonds Park Avenue Oxfords). For fabric sneakers and rain boots (like L.L. Bean boots), I use Tarrago’s Nano Protector because it includes a hint of silicone in the formula to help repel water. For hikers and hunters who need the ultimate protection against the elements, Saphir’s Everest dubbin grease is great for waterproofing your boots but please note that it may darken the color. And if you’re really heading out there, make sure your boots have the proper insulation and breathable yet waterproof lining (gore-tex). Wet feet = dangerous when it comes to spending real time outdoors.

Clean

• Horsehair shoe brush by Cobbler’s Choice – $12  (top, the larger brush is a horsehair brush)
• Mild leather cleaner: Saphir Reno – $29.95
• Aggressive leather cleaner: Saphir Reno’Mat – $19.50
• Suede and Nubuck cleaner: Saphir Omnidaim – $20
• Suede brush and eraser kit by Cobbler’s Choice – $12  (bottom, the small brush is a suede brush)

Cleaning your boots and shoes is a simple process that starts with a quick brushing after each wear (editor’s note: or for many of us, maybe not every time… but yes when it looks like they need it.) The goal is to knock off any loose dust, dirt, or other particulates from the day’s adventure before they can become stuck or embedded into the leather. Did you know that dust and dirt can also leach the fats and oils from leather? Given enough time, this can cause the leather to dry out and start to harden and crack, especially in the high stress areas across the vamp. A stiff bristle horsehair brush is essential here. I prefer having at least two brushes on hand – one for black shoes and one for brown shoes – as cross contaminating pigmented cream is not fun.

Generally speaking, you shouldn’t have to deep clean your shoes on a regular basis. However, occasionally you really step in something mucky or yucky and your leather shoes will need to be cleaned with an actual cleaning product. For “normal” intermittent cleaning, Saphir’s Reno leather cleaner is a mild and more gentle formula that will help remove residual waxes without stripping the leather too much. If you need to pull out the big guns to remove excess polish, wax, or other stubborn dirt stains, you’ll want to use something like Saphir’s Reno’Mat sparingly. Note that some cleaners and saddle soap-like products are very drying; you’ll want to follow these up with a conditioner to make sure you’re rehydrating the leather.

For suede shoes and most sneakers, you’ll typically use a mild cleaner and cleaning brush to get deep down between the fibers of the suede or technical fabric. I follow this up with a spray-on protector product as well.

Condition

• Bick 4 (lightweight) leather conditioner – $17.99  (above left)
• Saphir Rénovateur neutral conditioner – $28.95
• Saphir Pommadier pigmented cream polish – $26.95  (above right)
• Saphir Oiled Leather cream – $16.75
• Saphir Renovateur suede and nubuck conditioning spray – $28.50
• Wellington horsehair shoe polish dauber – $6

Leather is like your skin – it needs to stay hydrated or it will start to dry out, crack, and fall apart. A good leather conditioner is an essential tool in your shoe care arsenal and it’s important to get the correct kind of conditioner for your specific leather.

• For shoes made with calfskin or smooth leather: A neutral (non-pigmented) conditioner like Bick 4 or Saphir’s Renovateur is a great option.
• If you’d like to impart some color back into a shoe’s leather: Look for a color matching cream polish like Saphir’s Pommadier.
• For shoes made with oiled pull-up leathers like Horween’s Chromexcel: You’ll want an oiled leather cream without waxes to help recondition those leather goods and prevent the pores from getting clogged up.
• Suede is a bit harder to condition… as many conditioning products contain oils or waxes that would otherwise flatten the suede nap. For these pairs of shoes, look for a suede and nubuck spray-on conditioner.
• Performance textile sneakers don’t typically need conditioning products.

(Condition Part II): Conditioning Technique

This is a sub-category of category 3, “Condition,” but it’s a necessary point to cover. As far as technique goes, everyone develops their own game plan. Some prefer a less intensive technique (editor’s note: I myself prefer the less-intensive way)… and some prefer to do a little more. There are 8 zillion tutorials on youtube, but

Generally speaking:

1. I brush off any dirt or dust from my shoes.
2. I use horsehair daubers to lightly apply the conditioner or cream to my boots and shoes because the bristles tend to get down into the panel gaps and welt joints better than an old t-shirt wrapped around your finger.
3. I then let the product dry for ~10 minutes
4. I then come back and buff it out with a horsehair brush until the leather starts to glow. This can take some elbow grease and pressure.
5. If you’d like to achieve a mirror shine, apply some clear or pigmented wax polish now.

That’s really it. Brush them off, apply a little of the conditioner or cream with a dauber, wait for it to dry, brush it off. The end. Everything after that is extra and up to you.

There is no set schedule for how often you should condition your shoes; just keep an eye on the leather and if it starts to look dry or dusty, spend a few minutes rehydrating it and then buff it out.

Storage (trees, bags, boxes, etc.)

• Shoe Trees (budget): Nordstrom Rack aromatic cedar split-toe shoe trees – $20
• Shoe Trees (nice): Woodlore Epic Twin Tube Shoe Trees – $36 
• Shoe Bags: Wellington Cotton Shoe Bags – $25 (or make your own!)
• Shoe Storage Boxes: Wellington Shoe Storage Box – $18.25
• Stackable shoe organizers: SEE SPRING Clear Plastic Shoe Organizer Kit – $40

As we mentioned earlier, it’s important to keep dust and dirt away from your fine shoes. Scientists say dust is primarily composed of dead skin cells, dust mites, soil, tiny plastic particles, loose clothing fibers, bacteria, hair, etc. Now, imagine what’s in your closet and you will probably understand that we should be taking better care of our shoes when they’re not being worn. Personally, every pair of shoes that I purchase (not including cheap sneakers) gets a set of cedar split-toe shoe trees and a pair of individual cotton flannel shoe storage bags. (Editor’s Note: And that’s why he’s our shoe expert.) 

Cedar shoe trees are used to help keep the uppers from twisting, curling, and shrinking as the shoes dry out. Plus, the cedar wood is antibacterial and can absorb excess moisture and deodorize your shoes. I personally enjoy the smell of cedar, but if you don’t, you can get shoe trees made from beech, maple, ebony, etc. Try to avoid plastic trees unless they’re for travel.

Shoe bags help keep the shoes dry, dust free, and can prevent minor dents and dings during travel. When I travel for work, I usually pack my shoes in my checked bag and we’ve all seen those videos of the bored and underpaid airline workers practicing shot put with a suitcase.

Most of us do not have a closet like Cher in Clueless, so we must take advantage of the space that we have available. I’m a sucker for a well made shoe box because it allows me to store and neatly stack my shoes in my closet to save space. Plus, it’s easy to recognize certain pairs through their shoe boxes (IE: Grant Stone). For the shoes that have outlived their original box, I’m slowly transitioning them over to clear plastic stackable shoe boxes as the budget allows.

Repair

• Replacement heels can cost ~$40-60+
• Full leather resoles can cost ~$100-200+
• Full rubber resoles can cost ~$125-240+

As you’ve seen so far, we’re big advocates for buying well-made shoes and taking good care of them. The next level to essential shoe care is keeping an eye on your shoes over time and watching for any signs that tell you it’s time to stop wearing them because they need a service. It’s always better to be proactive than reactive; don’t let your favorite shoes develop holes or start to fall apart. It’s much easier and usually less expensive to fix these small things early.

Back in May of 2023, I had my ~8 year old Alden longwing bluchers refurbished as they were starting to feel less comfortable as the leather outsole got thinner. I was notoriously hard on these shoes, especially at the heels and toes, so it made sense to get a full resole and add metal toe taps for some extra protection. This type of service extends their life, increases the value that I’m getting out of them, and reduces the overall cost per wear. I think it’s worth it.

(I’d like to thank Grant and Isaac of Unsung House in Nashville, TN for repairing those Aldens and also for helping break down and simplify these shoe care concepts for me. If you have any questions about shoe care or shoe restoration, email them. Thanks, y’all. Cheers!)

If you’ve spent some time on any men’s style message board or forum, you might think owning a pair of decent quality dress shoes requires hours upon hours of care, cleaning, and effort to maintain. Bull-feathers. It’s just not true. The guys who spend all that time detailing their shoes do it because they like it. It’s similar to the dudes who spend hours babying a fancy car in their garage. Fun for them, but unnecessary. Basic, smart care can keep your investment looking good, all while allowing you to get out the door without too much delay. Here’s how to do it.

Storage:

• Use cedar shoe trees. Shoe trees are like good hangers for your suits and sportcoats. They support the structure of the shoe when not in use. Plus, cedar smells good and helps soak up any leftover moisture your feet have left behind.

• Consider dust bags… maybe. But only if your unworn shoes spend lots of time out in the open, and you go long periods between wearing them. To some, bags just add to clutter.

Like a bra for your shoes. They help support and maintain shape.

Shining/Polishing:

• Supplies: Horse hair brush. Daubers (optional). Old socks, rag, soft cloth, or t-shirt to buff with. Shoe creme (Meltonian does the job well for cheap).

• Method: 
  • Clean: Brush any dust/dirt off your shoes with the horsehair brush. Use a slightly damp rag for tough stuff. You can also use a leather conditioner/cleaner, but I have yet to actually use any of that stuff. Ever. In my life.
  • Apply: Using a dauber or old sock, apply a thin layer of matching shoe creme to the leather. It should look kinda cloudy once applied. Just don’t gob it on.
  • Wait: Wait 10-15 min. for the creme to dry. Go make a sandwich or something.
  • Brush: Brush the now dried, thin layer of creme with the horse hair brush. Use some some speed/light force.
  • Buff: Buff to a shine with a soft cloth or old sock. Tip: Put your foot in the shoe, and elevate it on a sturdy surface like a stair or shine box.

And that’s it. Eat sandwich. Go outside and play.

You really don’t need more than this, and you certainly don’t “need” the box.

Repair:

Find an honest to goodness cobbler. You’ll most likely need new heels before you need a new sole (assuming your shoes can be re-soled). When you do need a new sole, consider their re-crafting service of the maker, if there  is one (such as Allen Edmonds.) Nobody knows their own shoes like the manufacturer. Otherwise, look for a cobbler who has been around for a while.

And a heads up: Unless you drag your feet, you’ll need soles a hell of a lot less than you might think. I bought my first pair of Goodyear welted Allen Edmonds in… 2008? 2009? A pair of black Weybridge Oxfords. I’ve worn them a ton since then. They’re my go-to black dress shoes. They haven’t had to be re-soled yet, and neither have any of my other Goodyear welted shoes.

Heels will wear faster than soles, which should take a while to wear down.

Bespoke Post January 2013: “Polished” – $45.00

For $45 per box, Bespoke Post will deliver to your door a “box of awesome” once a month.  Inside you’ll find hand selected items curated for a guy like you.  You can skip any box you want or cancel at any time.  Click here for more.

Taking care of your shoes is a little like taking care of your skin.  Some guys are really into it.  And then there are those of us who throw a little goop on there every once in awhile and call it good.  If you’re the latter*, the Bespoke Post box for this month might not be that intriguing.  Same goes for those who already have an established collection of tools and goop creme or polish for their shoes.

But if you’re just starting out, or, you’re looking to upgrade from an old dime-store Kiwi shoe shine kit, then this setup might be a terrific value.

Catapulting your shoe shine routine to the next level.

Saphir is awfully well respected (Meltonian man myself), and their “Renovateur” leather treatment usually runs about $20 a jar on its own.  You also get a jar of their black and brown shoe creme, neutral wax, a brush that really does fit in your hand nicely, a couple of dauber brushes to get the goop on your shoes, navy and red shoelaces, and a crazy-soft dust bag for a pair of your shoes that might not otherwise have one.

Could you assemble a similar kit for the same price?  Maybe, but it wouldn’t be Saphir’s high quality level stuff.  The level of interest one would have for this box depends on whether or not you’re the type to use not just creme, but the leather treatment and wax every so often (creme = has pigments and offers some shine, leather treatment = conditions/cleans, wax = higher shine and adds a level of protection).  If you’re into giving your shoes the full treatment, then this is a yes.  Throw in the sweet cigar box you might get as nifty packaging/storage (nice work by the Bespoke Post design team) and you’ve got a far more luxurious kit than most of us started out with.

*(full honesty: as a creme-polish-every-once-in-awhile-and-that’s-it guy, I didn’t have the highest hopes for this box, but, I was pretty impressed when it showed.)

Enter here to win Bespoke Post’s “Polished” Box. One entry per person. Deadline for entry is 11:59 pm ET on 1/29/12.

UPDATE:  Congrats to Nicholas F. who won this month’s Box of Awesome from Bespoke Post! 

Take 25% off at BrooksBrothers.com with FNFBB1

Code expires Monday September 24, 2012.  In case you’re suit shopping, here’s the order in which Brooks Brothers suits fit, with the Milano fitting the slimmest: Milano<Regent<Fitzgerald<Madison (note that the Fitzgerald is “inspired by JFK” and still claims a trimmer fit.)  F&F event is going on in store too, and you’ll need the mailer card for that.

25% off is nice.  But when it’s 25% off new stuff that’s at full retail, and you’re at Brooks Brothers… your checkbook can still take a serious beating.  TJ Maxx this is not.  Some limited picks here that won’t hurt too much (maybe.  okay, some will)  Better deals can be found over in the clearance section, where the 25% off code FNFBB1 still works.
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Cedar Shoe Valet – $96.00 ($128)

The Cadillac of shoe valet kits.  Cedar box with all the trimmings.  Two horsehair brushes, two daubers, and black and brown shoe creme.  If you know someone who’s just starting to get into dressing well, or maybe someone who’s been liking the entire style thing for awhile but doesn’t have good gear to take care of their shoes, this is a perfect gift.  Made in the USA.

Driving Mocs in Buffalo or Suede – $96.00 ($128)

These were on sale forever, but sizes got short and they eventually disappeared.  Welcome to the new stock.  Under $100 and darn near perfect looking in either suede (4 colors) or buffalo leather (2 colors.)

Regent Fit Suits – $637.13 per IF you buy two ($998 for one at full retail)

This is way high.  But, if you just landed a job where you’ll be in a suit 5 days a week, need something not bulky but not crazy modern, and want something that can take a beating… a grey and navy Fitzgerald Fit from Brooks Brothers is a very solid foundation to a suit collection.  Price assumes you’re buying two and get the 2 for $1699 price.  Then the 25% off is applied.  Cripes that’s a lot of cash.

Slim Laptop Case – $223.50 ($298)

The top end of the plain, nylon with leather trim laptop case.  Ballistic Nylon with Buffalo leather trim, it’s made in the states, and it does balance the entire rugged and professional thing pretty well.  Still carries a pretty hefty price tag.

Harris Tweed or Blackwatch vest – $148.50 ($198)

Vests can get expensive, but with the 25% off, these are still a splurge but not totally unattainable.  Harris tweed option can be a workhorse for your fall wardrobe.  No lapels on that one.  The blackwatch pattern has lapels and the pattern makes it a little more difficult to wear.  Plenty more colors, fabrics, and patterns over here.

Sterling Silver Knot Cufflinks – $71.25 ($95)

Won’t ever go out of style.

Filson Large Duffle – $243.75 ($325)

One of the prettiest damn duffels out there that still retains plenty of masculine character.  Enormous at 5460 cubic inches.  Bridle leather, water repellent twill exterior, and Made in the USA.  Brooks Brothers also carries the medium sized travel bag (2574 cubic inches), and as well as the loved by many Filson Original Briefcase.

Red Wing for Brooks Brothers Antique Cactus Iron Ranger – $298.50 ($398)

Blessed mother of hot pie face.  That’ll run a flag up the escalator.

The Brooks Brothers Friends & Family 25% off site wide code FNFBB1 expires on Monday 9/24.

Top 5 Most Wanted – November 2011

Consider these to be power rankings.  Whether you’re looking for gift ideas or a quick upgrade for yourself, expect these to come around about once a month.  The best of the best, which you may or may not have seen already.  Agreements, disagreements, and additions are more than welcome in the comments section below.

Click here for the top 5 most wanted lists from previous months.
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5. L.L. Bean Signature Flannel Suit – $320.00

There’s not a lot of  fall/winter suiting options that lean casual, but this one from L.L. Bean is like a cold weather version of their new traditional twill summer suit.  It’s dressed up but can also dressed down with a patterned shirt, sweater, and no tie.  This seems to have a better fit in the pants compared to the new traditional twill, and they replaced patch pockets for standard flaps on the jacket.  A little pricey, but the jacket can be worn with jeans and the pants will be perfect on their own.

 

4. Florsheim Gaffney – $96.00 w/ code link20 + Custom Soles – $45

Credit to Aaron L. for coming up with the idea to change the sole.  These are his boots.  He wasn’t sure if he’d like the lug sole on the Gaffneys, and when they showed up he wasn’t thrilled.  The rest of the boot was more than fine.  So much so that he took them to his local cobbler, and they took the lug sole off and replaced it with a more traditional rubber sole.  As he mentioned in the comments over here, it “completely changed the look of the boot.”  Nice work.

 

3. Synovia Cedar Shoe Valet – $59.95

Shining shoes can be an odd balancing act without the help of a shoe valet and its support stand.  For sixty shipped you get a cedar shoe valet with a sliding top so you can store your shoe care gear inside, and they throw in plenty of essentials to get you started if you don’t have any.  Made in the USA too.

 

2. The Black Keys – El Camino (available December 6th)

The Black Keys have a new album coming out in early December.  Our music correspondent Tim Johnstone sent along the new single via email, in which the subject was only “this is all kinds of awesome, this is.”  8 seconds in and you know Tim’s dead on.  Head this way for more on the star of the video for their first single “Lonely Boy.”

 

1. Timex Blue Q-Dial – $76.00* ($95) | Timex Intelligent Chrono – $165

Hot damn the blue Q-Dial is back.  The code FALL2011 will get you 20% off through Timex.com too.  Ships free as well.  The chronograph doesn’t seem to be on Timex.com but does ship (and return) free through Amazon or Nordstrom.  No word on when the Timex.com code expires.

From the Mailbag:  Thoughts on adding rubber to leather sole shoes?

Shoes pictured above – The Allen Edmonds Weybridge.  Currently unavailable.

I just picked up a pair of the Allen Edmonds Strand that you’d highlighted in your article on the Nordstrom Sale.  I’ve got a pair of Park Avenues that I’ve had for years (refurbished twice), so I knew they’d be a solid bet.

I also have two pairs of loafers that I’ve had the rubber catspaws added to the bottom to extend the life of the sole before having to send them in for re-soling.  So far they seem to be helping ward off the too-frequent intervals at which I have to get my leather-soled shoes repaired.

I haven’t put them on my AE’s, but expect I will this time around.  Ever have anyone mention rubber soles on the site?  Or heard of a downside to using them?  They don’t seem to add any bulk to the outline of the shoe, and so far I’ve been pretty happy with them.

– Ryan
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Topys, Cat’s Paws, and Vibram sole protectors are all basically the same thing.  They’re a rubbery sheet that a cobbler (the fellas who work on shoes, not the tasty dessert) can apply to the bottom of leather sole shoes in order to make them more durable.  Leather soles wear away and will eventually need to be replaced.  These act as an extra barrier between your leather soles and the sandpaper like paved roads we walk every day.  Damn Romans.

A good sign of a quality shoe is a leather sole (there are certainly exceptions), and the fact that they require more maintenance is sort of what you’re buying into.

Yet it’s completely understandable that some want to protect their investment.  And congrats to Ryan for investing in a pair of Strands, but here’s why I’m thinking he should skip the extra protection:
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Some things are just meant to be enjoyed to the fullest.

Your thoughts on adding rubber sole protectors to leather sole shoes?  Do you think those extra scrapes on a leather sole add character?  Or are they ugly, messy and wreck the look?  Leave it all in the comments section below.