Dappered https://dappered.com Affordable Men's Style Tue, 25 Feb 2025 22:34:28 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9 https://dappered.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/cropped-dappered-icon-100x100.png Dappered https://dappered.com 32 32 How to shave with a Double Edged Safety Razor, and why you should make the switch https://dappered.com/2017/02/the-how-to-double-edged-safety-razor-shaving/ Tue, 28 Feb 2017 11:00:16 +0000 https://dappereddev.wpenginepowered.com/?p=159440 Heads up: Buying via our links results in us getting a commission (not always, but just about), which helps keep the lights on around here. We also take your privacy rights seriously. Head here to learn more.

About the Author: Zach S. is an expedition and product/lifestyle photographer from Maryland’s Eastern Shore, and a graduate of The United States Military Academy Preparatory School. When he’s not doing photography, he’s writing and working towards his goal of becoming a Marine Aviator.

I firmly believe that shaving is one of those things that has gotten worse as society progresses, not better. Whereas our grandfathers and great-grandfathers could remove stubble with a confident swipe of a straight razor, we find ourselves reliant on complex six-bladed metal and plastic contraptions and buzzing machines that leave our skin patchy and irritated. What was once a morning ritual has become a rushed afterthought in the morning routine of most men.

How to shave with a Double Edged Safety Razor, and why you should make the switch| Dappered.com

A razor without plastic and multiple blades!

This winter, on a whim, I bought a double edged safety razor at a CVS because it was the same price as a pack of replacement blades, and it has been the best thing I’ve ever done for my face. The single blade is razor sharp, and cuts closer than any cartridge I’ve experienced. I’ve been shaving on a daily basis since high school (twice a day in the army), and my face is feeling better than it ever has. Another benefit is that the blades are incredibly cheap, so you can switch more often and still save a serious chunk of change. Over the course of this article, I’ll try to cover both the basics you’ll need to start, as well as the techniques needed to master the safety razor.

The Basics

Double Edged Safety Razor: you can get one of these from many places. Vintage ones can be had for cheap on ebay, and the forums seem to recommend the entry-level ones from brands like Merkur. For the sake of economy, I went with a Van Der Hagen model from my local drug store. It cost about 20 bucks, and came with 5 blades, which should last you a few weeks.

Blades: This is where you’ll need to experiment. I wasn’t particularly satisfied with the blades that came with my razor, so when it came time to order more, I looked at my options. Given that my beard is extremely coarse, I chose Feather brand blades, which are famously sharp. If you have a softer beard, I’d suggest Derby blades, which are much more forgiving on the face, and slightly cheaper. Several barber companies sell variety packs so you can experiment. A pack of 5 blades typically costs around a dollar, and they’re even cheaper if you buy 20-50 at a time.

How to shave with a Double Edged Safety Razor, and why you should make the switch| Dappered.com

A 5 pack of blades will last a couple weeks.

Shaving Soap: Do yourself a big favor, and take your can of Barbasol and throw it in the trash. It’s what I used for years, but for this you’re going to want a proper lather. The chemicals in the canned creams dry out your face and gunk up the razor. You can get a bar of shaving soap for a few dollars most any place, but I’ve been using a bar from Mike’s Natural Soaps. It’s about 12 dollars for a bar, but it’ll last for weeks, and Mike’s soap includes tallow and lanolin, so you’ll get a crazy smooth shave and a good moisturizer all in one. From what I’ve been told on the various shaving forums, the cream is one of the biggest factors in getting a good shave.

Mug and Brush: You’ll need these to whip your soap into a rich lather for your face. The finest brushes are made of badger hair, but I got a boar bristle one on sale at Walmart for a few dollars, and it’s been doing just fine. You can also get a special shaving mug, but really any big mug will work. I’ve been using my Art of Manliness coffee mug to great effect. This is one of those places you can really save money.

Styptic Pencil: This one is totally optional, but the first time I shaved like this, I cut myself many times and needed one. You rub it on the cut and it cauterizes it, stopping the bleeding. Oh yes, it stings, but it stops the bleeding.

 

Shaving Technique

Now that we’ve covered the basics, here’s the technique to shaving with a safety razor, step by step.

How to shave with a Double Edged Safety Razor, and why you should make the switch| Dappered.com

What your lather should look like.

Step 1: This depends on your morning routine. If you shower in the mornings, just start your shave when you get out, so your face will be wet and warm. If you don’t shower, get a face towel and soak it in hot water from the sink and hold it to your beard, letting the heat open your pores for a minute or so.

Step 2: Using warm (not hot) water, gently soak your brush. Be careful not to use hot water, as it’ll unglue your brush.

Step 3: Using your wet brush, start rubbing your bar of soap (which should be sitting in the bottom of your mug) in slow, circular motions. As you see foam form, increase your speed until it becomes a rich lather. It should take about a minute. It’ll take practice, but you’re trying to strike a balance between it being too runny or too thick.

How to shave with a Double Edged Safety Razor, and why you should make the switch| Dappered.com

Be sure to work that lather around/under all your whiskers.

Step 4: Wet your face once more, and apply the cream to your face with the brush. Use gentle circular motions to evenly apply it, being careful to get it under the bristles of your beard.

Step 5: Holding the razor at a 30-45 degree angle, gently run it down your cheek, starting at your sideburn. Go slowly, and don’t use any pressure. The weight of the razor should be doing all the work. I recommend doing passes of 2-3 inches, washing the razor in the sink between strokes. As you get down to your jaw and neck, you’re going to want to feel your face and shave with the grain. If you go across the grain or against it your first time, you’ll probably cut yourself. Take your time and reapply cream as needed. Never shave an area without cream, and don’t rush.

How to shave with a Double Edged Safety Razor, and why you should make the switch| Dappered.com

Word of Advice: practice on a balloon first.

Step 6: Once you’ve shaved with the grain, most of you will be good enough for day to day life, but if you want that baby faced smooth feel you see on drill instructors and police, you’re going to want to re-apply the cream and go across the grain. When shaving, pay careful attention to the direction your beard grows in. The hair on your neck often grows in the opposite direction. When you’ve shaved across, reapply for the last time and carefully shave against the grain. This is the step I initially cut myself on, so be very cautious until you get the hang of it. After talking to my local barber, he told me to cover a balloon in shaving cream and practice on it until I could shave it without popping it. You need to be delicate.

Step 7: The final step is to wash off your face. I use cold water to help close my pores, and then I use a styptic pencil to cauterize any cuts I may have gotten. If your face feels raw, apply some lotion or aftershave. Clean the leftover cream from your mug, rinse your brush, and then set it out to dry. Be sure to clean off your razor, too.

How to shave with a Double Edged Safety Razor, and why you should make the switch| Dappered.com

Blood free and closely shaven. Success!

Step 8: Admire your shave! These are the 8 steps I use when I shave, and should provide an adequate foundation that you can branch out from. I hope this article has helped convince you to take the plunge and try a double edged razor, and has provided you with all the steps you need to succeed! Be sure to hit me up on Instagram to tell me how it’s going!

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10 Grooming Fails That Can Ruin Your Look – Illustrated https://dappered.com/2016/02/10-grooming-fails-that-can-ruin-your-look-illustrated/ Tue, 23 Feb 2016 11:00:37 +0000 https://dappereddev.wpenginepowered.com/?p=144196 Heads up: Buying via our links results in us getting a commission (not always, but just about), which helps keep the lights on around here. We also take your privacy rights seriously. Head here to learn more.

10 Grooming Fails That Can Ruin Your Look - Illustrated | Dappered.com

]]> 10 Common Men’s Grooming Mistakes https://dappered.com/2015/03/10-common-mens-grooming-mistakes/ Mon, 09 Mar 2015 10:00:53 +0000 https://dappereddev.wpenginepowered.com/?p=129368 Heads up: Buying via our links results in us getting a commission (not always, but just about), which helps keep the lights on around here. We also take your privacy rights seriously. Head here to learn more.

#1. Shaving against the grain

“But against the grain gives you a closer shave!” True, but shaving with the grain (following the direction your hair grows) gives you 95% as close of a shave, with 95% less cuts and irritation. It’s just not worth it to shave against the grain. Open up your pores with warm to hot (but not scalding) water before you shave. Shave with the grain. Close pores with cold water after. Conquer world.

#2. Waiting to get a haircut until you really need one

This is a game-changer for plenty. When many of us were kids, our parents took us to get our hair cut maybe once every  six weeks. Those habits understandably stuck with us into adulthood. Here’s the thing: cut that time in half to three weeks and get a trim instead of a major hack job. Tell your barber that you’re doing this, that you’re looking for a trim, and that you’ll be back in three weeks. Yes it costs more to get a haircut more often. But your hair is one of the few things you “wear” every day. The benefits of this strategy are two-fold:

  1. Your hair will always be in that sweet spot. It’ll be neither too short (“hey! get your ears lowered!?) nor too long.
  2. More visits mean a better relationship with your barber or stylist. You’ll get on the same page much faster, and if/when you decide to try something new, your chances of success are vastly increased.

The tri-weekly trim is hugely underrated.
(Photo by dwi rina on Unsplash)

#3. Using too much hair product

Hair product with men is a bit like makeup with women. Better to go with less than go overboard (never, ever put the makeup gun on “whore mode“). It can be a tough habit to break though. Many guys want that control. The secret is: nobody really notices if you’ve got some hair that’s out of place.

#4. Not Moisturizing… Ever

Why are you workin’ those biceps and triceps if every time you’re in short sleeves your skin is scaly and flaking off? It doesn’t take much to avoid looking like you’re a day or two away from molting. It can be as easy as applying some basic moisturizer before bed, or simply using a moisturizing, non-drying bodywash. Doesn’t have to be some girly thing, nor does it have to be plastered with “this is for MEN!” marketing. Just find something that leaves your skin, post shower, feeling pliable and smooth, and not like the Bonneville Salt Flats.

10 Common Men's Grooming Mistakes | Dappered.com

Prevents flaky, scaly skin. Not real fragrant. Smells clean.

#5. Failing to clean your shower, tub, and sink regularly

You’re not doing surgery (well, let’s hope you’re not), but if you’re shaving and scrubbing in a filthy environment, you leave yourself open to bacteria and fungus. A clean and mean appearance is tough to cultivate in a sewer.

#6. Missing the stray hairs just behind/below your jaw line

During one of the Sherlock Holmes stories, Holmes determines which direction Watson’s mirror is facing in his home because of the constant patch of hair he misses, at the back of his jaw, when shaving. The point of this example: missing those scraggly hairs right behind your jaw line happens to the best of us. Turn your head and make sure you didn’t miss em’. It’s the follicle equivalent of not washing behind your ears.

10 Common Men's Grooming Mistakes | Dappered.com

#7. Letting your toe nails get too long

Outta sight outta mind right? Wrong. Guaranteed that if you keep forgetting to trim your toenails, the next time you head to the beach or jump in a hot-tub (or jump in a bed) you’ll horrify others with your foot talons. Also, if you’re active and on your feet a lot, longer toenails could lead to unsightly thickening due to trauma (for example: the beating your toes take while running). Now, don’t go overboard. Cutting your toenails too short, or too rounded could lead to ingrown nails.

#8. Not trimming… down there

Look, it’s a bit of a taboo subject on the guy-side, but knocking back the shrubbery every so often keeps you cooler. Now, no one is saying you should take a bic to your bits, but keeping your animal from looking like Animal is just common courtesy to your partner (if you have one). Imagine if they didn’t do some landscaping now and then? Yikes. Plus, there are certain… optical advantages…

#9. Plucking nose hairs (or not trimming at all)

First of all… ow. Second, ripping out nose hairs by the root can leave you susceptible to some awfully nasty infections. Is it really risky? Probably not. But if you’re prone to hostile nostril*** hairs, just get a trimmer. They’re cheap, and they work.

#10. Overdoing it on cologne

This is a tough one, because what is the point of cologne if no one can smell you? Yet at the same time, not everyone in the same room as you should be able to pick up your bottled scent. This is more about the golden rule of respecting others around you than anything else. Consider not wearing it every day, but saving it for special occasions, and reducing your radius. If your scent walks in the room before you do, you’re leaving the wrong impression. Just like hair product, it’s better to go with less than go overboard.

The reactions are dead on. Confusion. Irritation. Struggling to be tactful.

***Also reserving this for a backup name when I become a pro wrestler (first choice: “Handsome Damage”). Finishing move would have to be some sort of okie-blow / atomic elbow from the top rope.

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Choosing a Shaving Brush – The Different Grades of Badger https://dappered.com/2013/09/choosing-a-shaving-brush-the-different-grades-of-badger/ https://dappered.com/2013/09/choosing-a-shaving-brush-the-different-grades-of-badger/#comments Mon, 23 Sep 2013 10:00:03 +0000 https://dappereddev.wpenginepowered.com/?p=101737 Heads up: Buying via our links results in us getting a commission (not always, but just about), which helps keep the lights on around here. We also take your privacy rights seriously. Head here to learn more.

Grooming Pretentiousness? – The Badger Hair Shaving Brush

Andrew, Dappered’s grooming correspondent, is also the editor-in-chief of Electrogent, a men’s interest, grooming, and lifestyle website which squares the modern interests of men with the classic notions of manliness.

There is a lot of pretentiousness going on in the grooming world, particularly when it comes to shaving brushes. If you’ve ever talked to a guy who is particularly proud of his shaving routine, you are sure to have heard the phrase “badger hair shaving brush.” If they’re really obnoxious about it, they will specify which kind of badger hair. Sheesh. You see, there are four types of badger hair brushes, depending on where the hair came from. Let’s start with the most expensive:

$$$$$ – Silvertip badger hair brush: this is the Rolls Royce of the badger hair brushes, and is widely regarded (aka marketed) as the best. The silver tips are naturally occurring, and these hairs hold water nicely and result in a well-formed lather. Some people sell “extra silvertip” or “super silvertip” brushes, but this is wholly marketing nonsense. For instance, take a gander at this $2195 shaving brush; you’re buying a piece of ivory with hair on it. If you buy this, I have a great investment opportunity spearheaded by a Mr. Madoff that you might be interested in. Don’t be a sucker.

$$$ – Super badger hair brush: the super badger hair performs well, but not as well as the silvertip, but it resembles the silvertip because companies will often dye the tips of the hairs for obvious marketing purposes.

$$ – Best badger hair brush: these hairs come from the back/sides of the badger, and people claim they can tell a difference between “pure” and “super” brushes. I call shenanigans.

$ – Pure badger hair brush: this is the most common kind of badger hair brush, and the hairs come from the belly of the badger. These hairs are generally rougher than the softer silvertip brushes.

Pure
Pure badger hair brush – $36.

Here’s the executive rundown of that long list: silvertip brushes are softest, everything else is rougher. That much is clearly true, one only needs to touch the brush to figure that out. It’s like comparing cashmere to burlap–the former is clearly softer. Now, whether one performs better than the rest is still up for debate.

I’ve used both silvertip and pure badger in my lifetime, and I can wholeheartedly say that if a difference exists, it doesn’t matter. Badger hair of any kind will create a great lather, and the gradations between the four levels of badger hair brushes are wholly marketing techniques and make no difference in the long run. It’s just shaving cream.

So why even bother with badger?

A badger hair brush will definitely improve your shave over a synthetic brush, that’s for certain. Badger hair brushes are going to run you a bit more than synthetic, but that is worth the money–buying a silvertip vs. a pure badger hair is not.

Also, remember that these brushes are tools and not heirlooms. There is absolutely no reason to buy an ivory-handled shaving brush unless you just want the ivory. Get a workhorse pure badger hair shaving brush that will last you a long time and improve your shave enough to justify the slight extra cost. If anyone starts talking about the gradations between the levels of badger hair brushes, just know they’re full of it.

But what about boar?

It’s not just about synthetic or badger, you know. Boar hair is also commonly used in shaving brushes as well. Think of the boar’s hair as the intermediate between synthetic and badger–it’s cheaper, but really isn’t worth the small savings.

The Smell: Badger and boar hair stink right out of the box. There’s no getting around it–badgers and boars aren’t necessarily known for their hygiene. However, badger hair scent will subside quite noticeably after 2-3 uses, and then it’s no big deal. Boar hair stinks ad infinitum. I had a boar hair brush once and after a few months of use it stunk, my dudes…like a wet dog. Granted, I used one brush and it was cheap, but I’ve heard/read about this problem across the array of boar brushes.

The Lather: Badger hair is a lot softer and more pliable, therefore, when you make the lathering motions, there’s more give and spread on your brush, which means you’ll get a thicker lather. Boar hair is stronger, stiffer, and not as forgiving, which means the lather turns out weaker and not as fluffy and full. Think of the difference between the consistencies of, say, whipped cream and beer foam.

The Longevity: Badger hair brushes will usually last a longer time than boar hair brushes, because boar hairs tend to break if bent too far. Badger hair is very flexible and should last longer.

Which is the winner?

Taking all this into consideration the best shaving brush in my opinion, and that I’ve personally used (around 10 in my life), is…(drumroll, anyone?) the Parker pure badger hair brush. For the record, other honorable mentions are the Progress Vulfix and Edwin Jagger.

You should look to pay around $25-40 for a brush. Anything less than that is too skimpy, anything more than that and we’re reaching ivory-handled territory. You also want to go with badger hair, for reasons discussed. However, don’t go all silvertip on us–leave that for the professional barbers and people in the movies. For the average guy walking around and living a normal life, a pure badger hair brush is plenty fine. I promise you won’t tell the difference, anyways. Even if some slick-talking salesman will convince you otherwise, he won’t be able to answer this fundamental question: “Who cares?”

The shaving brush is a tool you use to shave. Yes, there are probably ivory-handled shovels in the world, but they all dig holes. Unless you’re into conspicuous consumption (and if you’re reading Dappered you probably aren’t), save the ivory for the Kim Jong-Un types: perpetually clean shaven, spendthrift, and insane.

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Win it: April 2013 Birchbox Man (plus review) https://dappered.com/2013/04/win-it-april-2013-birchbox-man-plus-review/ https://dappered.com/2013/04/win-it-april-2013-birchbox-man-plus-review/#comments Tue, 09 Apr 2013 15:00:04 +0000 https://dappereddev.wpenginepowered.com/?p=92475 Heads up: Buying via our links results in us getting a commission (not always, but just about), which helps keep the lights on around here. We also take your privacy rights seriously. Head here to learn more.

April 2013 BirchBox Man – $20.00

Andrew, Dappered’s grooming correspondent, is also the editor-in-chief of Electrogent, a men’s interest, grooming, and lifestyle website which squares the modern interests of men with the classic notions of manliness.

As a grooming blogger/reviewer, you would think that by now I’d be hip to the Birchbox game. Unfortunately, it was one of those things that I never got around to trying out. Well, such is no longer the case, as I opened and experienced my first Birchbox this month. I had no idea what to expect, I just knew that people love Birchbox, and for $20 they send a box of stuff to your home. Other than that, I was pretty much clueless. For posterity, I decided to record my experience of opening my first Birchbox, and I’ll give my reviews of the products inside in the article below.

So…what was inside?


(Editor’s Note:  Awesome knife not included.  Nice cutlery Andrew… Damn.)
 

Triple C Green Boom Portable Speaker

Neat and novel, but probably not worth buying.Neat and novel, but probably not worth buying?

By far, the coolest thing in the box was the Triple C Green Boom speaker. This is a single (mono) speaker made out of wood and bamboo that plugs in to basically anything with an audio jack. This speaker is novel and unique, and there are some real downsides with this.

First of all, the sound quality leaves a lot to desire, especially for the audiophiles out there. It sounds pretty decent at a low volume, but when you turn it up, it’s just plain awful. Don’t expect to do anything more with this than maybe some soft ambiance. Secondly, the cables for this speaker are about 10 inches long, so don’t expect to hide this somewhere fun–it will need to stay by the audio source. It has a rechargeable battery, though, so you at least have some degree of freedom.  Reviews are mixed on the Birchbox site, but so far it’s at 4.5 out of 5 stars.

 

Yes To Carrots Lip Butter

Say Yes to CarrotsWhat exactly is lip butter?

Don’t ask me what the difference between chap stick and lip butter is, because I don’t know. If I had to guess, chap stick is for chapped lips/restorative treatment, and lip butter is to make your lips feel softer? It really just feels oily, though, like you just made out with a stick of butter.

I’m actually a huge proponent of chap stick, in almost any weather. I live in a really dry area, and without it my lips are going to howl. However, I always use Burt’s Bees chap stick, and all other brands are far inferior–including Yes To. This lip butter smells nice, and has some vitamins in it, but I’ll be passing this along to my fianc©e who loves this kind of stuff.

 

Oribe Supershine Moisturizing Cream

asdfNo joke, no frills, all boss conditioner.

I don’t claim expertise in the realm of conditioners, but of the ones I’ve used, this is really amazing. This Oribe Supershine conditioner is no joke–not only will it make your hair (super) shiny, but it leaves you with some of the best-feeling hair you can imagine.

I tend to think of shampoo and conditioner like this. Hand soap is lathery and porous, but hand lotion is silky and moisturizing. Shampoo is your hand soap, and conditioner is your lotion. If you have a conditioner that is lathering up, chances are it’s garbage–not always, but most of the time. You can tell a good conditioner when it slides through your hair, letting you massage it into your scalp and letting it chill out in there for a few minutes (without sliding down your face).

Testing Oribe was a ton of fun, I only wish the sample size was bigger–it was enough for one use. Bummer.

 

Kiehl’s Facial Fuel Energizing Face Wash

fdIt has a cult following, and for good reason.

Kiehl’s has been on the top of my “to-try” list for a long time, and I’m glad I got the chance. I’ve used a lot of face washes in my day, and this one is among the best. Every wash I had left me feeling clean and fresh, and it’s a great face wash to work into your morning routine.

The bottle I have is really small, only a single ounce, but it is holding up better than expected. The lather is great, you only need a touch, and it’s a great no-nonsense face wash. After trying this sample, I’m definitely interested in buying a larger bottle.

 

Atlier Cologne Mistral Patchouli

asdfSmall, but mighty.

This Atelier Cologne is pungent. I dabbed a little on my wrists to let it sink in and warm up to my skin’s natural heat and oils, and I could smell it like nobody’s business. It doesn’t smell necessarily bad, it’s just really strong. If you like subtle scents, the Mistral Patchouli might not be one for you.

The cologne has a strong woodsy smell to it, so guys who like the outdoors might appreciate this one. The big downside is the full version of this cologne is expensive–around $185. Yikes. That’s a bit out of my pay grade.

Overall, my first Birchbox was pretty fun. Trying Kiehl’s for the first time was fantastic, I would have never gotten a chance to use Oribe, and this speaker is a pretty fun knick-knack. I wish the samples were for more affordable products, though, and it was kind of a big let down to learn the cost of the full-size products. Nevertheless, if you’re the type of person who likes getting surprises in the mail, or if you think you’d like to try various high-end grooming products without dropping $185 on some cologne, I think you can find something to appreciate in Birchbox Man. Just don’t expect too much.

Enter here to win April’s most popular box.  Since Birchbox assembles and sends out items based on a subscriber’s profile, not every box is the same.  The box up for giveaway includes the Portable Speaker, the Mint Lip Butter, a .5 oz tube of Jack Black Supreme Cream Shave Lather, and a sample size of Clark’s Botanicals Smoothing Marine Cream. One entry per person. Deadline for entry is 11:59 pm ET 4/10/13.  

UPDATE:  Congrats to Michael S. who won the April 2013 Birchbox Man.  Thanks to all who entered!

birchbox giveaway april 2013The Birchbox Man that’s up for the giveaway.  Good luck!

Note: Since this is grooming stuff that someone had to, y’know, actually use in order to test, Dappered purchased the box Andrew reviewed.  Birchbox Man provided the giveaway box one of you will win.  We do our absolute best to stay as independent and unbiased as possible and do not keep free samples.  Also, know that Birchbox is advertising on Dappered this month.  We do not accept advertorials of any kind, and this review was not a condition of the advertising agreement.  More here.

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How to Communicate With a New Barber https://dappered.com/2013/03/how-to-communicate-with-a-new-barber/ https://dappered.com/2013/03/how-to-communicate-with-a-new-barber/#comments Mon, 25 Mar 2013 21:00:54 +0000 https://dappereddev.wpenginepowered.com/?p=90810 Heads up: Buying via our links results in us getting a commission (not always, but just about), which helps keep the lights on around here. We also take your privacy rights seriously. Head here to learn more.

Andrew, Dappered’s grooming correspondent, is also the editor-in-chief of Electrogent, a men’s interest, grooming, and lifestyle website which squares the modern interests of men with the classic notions of manliness.

There’s something about going to a new barber that makes most men clam up. I’m not quite sure what causes this phenomenon, but some of the loudest, most Type-A personalities will pipe down as soon as someone asks, “So, what’ll it be?”

I’m convinced this fear of communicating with a new barber is a cause of the omnipresent buzz cut that plagues male hair. Once you go in and get it all chopped off the first time, it’s hard to grow it back out with any recognizable style without intervention. Thus, a cycle of growth and buzz continues on for years at a time, like a large Chia Pet.

Well, I say no more. It’s time to break the fear of communication with your new barber. It’s time to tell your new barber what you want, and more importantly, what you don’t want. Once they learn a little about you and your preferences, you can continue going in for visits without having to talk about your hair. Consider it like ripping a bandage off really fast–it’s uncomfortable for a little while, but then you get over it.

Dino, giving his nephew his first straight razor shave in his barber shop.
Dino, giving his nephew his first straight razor shave in the shop.

I recently tried out a new barber with some of these techniques, and it worked wonders. Since I only have tips from my end, I reached out to Dino Caracciolo, the owner of Crown Shaving Co., and longtime barber since the age of 18, when he took over his family barbershop which started in 1955. Dino gave me thoughts from the other side of the scissors, the barber’s perspective, and helped me learn about barber communication.

Here are some tips to help you start the dialogue with your new barber:

1. Come in with realistic expectations

Look: if you come in with a buzz cut, don’t expect to walk out looking like Chris Hemsworth. This may seem obvious, but in order to effectively communicate with your new barber, you need to expect something the barber can deliver. If you ask for something that’s unrealistic, you run the risk of your barber doing whatever they want. Some guys may want that, but your haircut should remain a collaborative effort from the start. If you want a new, longer hairstyle, you’re going to have to grow it out a bit. This sounds common sensical, but it’s the best first step.

2. Bring photos

The last time I used a new barber, I brought in 5 photos of the haircut I wanted, and 2 photos of haircuts I didn’t want. Particularly, I wanted the sides tapered off between two extremes: not too short, not too long. My barber loved it, and said it was very helpful. However, don’t expect your haircut to come out picture perfect. Dino says, “It is always helpful if the patron has a photo of what they want the end result to look like, as this will help give the barber some sort of direction. However this does not mean you will get that exact look.”

“Well, what’s the point, then?” You ask. Your job is to convey the general style, and the barber’s job is to make it fit your head. Just like when you go in to get a suit tailored, you pick out the general style, and the tailor makes it fit your body. A skilled barber will match your hair to your head, to prevent cow licks and sticking-out sides.

3. Decrease needless distractions

The worst thing you can do is try to explain your desired haircut to your new barber while you’re on the phone or otherwise distracted. During the initial consultation, give your new barber your undivided attention for a few minutes. It’s well worth it. For good measure, just stay off your phone during the whole cut. It can wait.

Additionally, show up on time. Don’t show up late to your first appointment, because your barber is likely going to get upset and breeze through the initial consultation, costing you a great haircut. If you drag it out, putting them further behind, the barber (who has just met you) will likely make up time during the actual cut by cutting too many corners. This is no bueno.

4. Explain your hair growth history

When was your last haircut? How fast does your hair grow? Does it grow outwards like a mushroom, or downwards like a weeping willow? These are all things you should tell your barber, as a skilled barber will take these growth patterns into context when tailoring the haircut to your head.

5. Don’t talk about your ex-barber(s)

Frankly, nobody cares. Dino says that when someone talks about how they “can’t find any good barbers around” it usually means the client is hard to please. Don’t be that guy. While it may be true that there are no good barbers around, you’re setting yourself up to look like a jerk, and that’s the last thing you want your barber thinking you are (remember who’s holding the sharp pointy things).

Communicating with your new barber is a unique social interaction, and it’s one that many men utterly fail without knowing it. Consider these tips the next time you decide to use a new barber, and soon you’ll have a great barber who knows what you want without having to speak a word.

Have you found a great barber?  How did the two of you communicate at the start?  What’s it like now?  Leave it all in the comments section.

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Dopp Kit Essentials https://dappered.com/2013/02/dopp-kit-essentials/ https://dappered.com/2013/02/dopp-kit-essentials/#comments Thu, 28 Feb 2013 11:00:37 +0000 https://dappereddev.wpenginepowered.com/?p=89191 Heads up: Buying via our links results in us getting a commission (not always, but just about), which helps keep the lights on around here. We also take your privacy rights seriously. Head here to learn more.

Andrew, Dappered’s grooming correspondent, is also the editor-in-chief of Electrogent, a men’s interest, grooming, and lifestyle website which squares the modern interests of men with the classic notions of manliness.

Your own bed, your couch, your pillow, your bathroom and your kitchen: all of these are staples of comfort in your home. However, for guys on the road a lot, sometimes the essentials around your bathroom sink are just as desirable as the actual sink itself. Ever forgotten your toothbrush on a long trip to a secluded area? Avoid that feeling by always having your own dopp kit either put together and ready to go, or at least a strategy for putting one together.

Dopp kits gained their namesake from a German immigrant leatherworker named Charles Doppelt. In 1919, he invented a leather case for carrying toiletries, and eventually these were distributed to GI’s during World War II. These days, a dopp kit is a more casual term referring to a travel bag for toiletries. However, despite the dopp kit’s history, the fundamentals are relatively unchanged over all those years.

There are a few essential items that all guys should keep in their dopp kit in order to keep that “home sink” feeling, no matter where you go. The main aspect to consider is the size of the item, followed by the item’s necessity. As shown below, you can pack many useful smaller items in the same amount of space as one bulky item that you might have a special affinity for. Additionally, because you’re going to have limited space, only take what you feel is absolutely essential to your travels. If you’re going camping, you will likely need more utilitarian items than cosmetic, and if you’re going away on business it’s likely you’ll feel the opposite.

Be mindful of space, and pack smaller items instead of bulkier ones.
Be mindful of space, and pack smaller items instead of bulkier ones.

Here are some ideas to get you started when packing your next dopp kit:

The Essentials
  • Toothbrush and toothpaste
  • Razor blades
  • Razor
  • Shaving cream
  • Deodorant
  • Shampoo
  • A comb
  • Hair product of choice
The Luxuries
  • Moisturizer
  • Cologne
  • Hand lotion
  • Aftershave
  • Chapstick
  • Mouthwash
The Utilities
  • A sewing kit
  • Fingernail clippers
  • Pocket knife
  • Aspirin
  • Band-aids
  • Styptic pencil

Surely, everyone’s list can differ in both content and priority, as it depends largely on your own personality and the nature of your trip. However, almost all dopp kits should contain the essentials, a few luxuries (if you want), and a couple utilities (you never know when you’ll need one of them). So long as you can affirmatively answer the question, “Do I really need this?” before packing it away, then you’ll have a successful dopp kit.

Furthermore, you will need to consider how you’re traveling. If you’re flying and you prefer to go straight carry-on, like me, you might have to ditch the double edge razors and pack some cartridges. A pack of 5 is really small (and cheap) so you could always try and sneak some past TSA, but you don’t want to get tased (bro). I’ve had the TSA take fingernail clippers before, and I surely know they’d confiscate a pocket knife. If you’re driving, you have nothing to worry about; but if you have to fly then make sure you check with TSA regulations to see if your dopp kit makes you a terrorist.

But what to put all this stuff in?  Sure you could go the Zip-loc bag route, but that’s not really any fun.  Plus it looks terrible hanging out on the bathroom counter at the hotel.  A few options worth considering:

Beckel Canvas Small Necessary Bag – $23.00
Mentioned before, worth mentioning again.
Mentioned before, worth mentioning again.

Clean, inexpensive, and slim at just 4″ tall.  For the guys that wants something that looks good, yet doesn’t take up all that much space.  6″ wide and a full 12″ long means you’ll still have space.  Made in the USA and three color options.

 

Izola Apothecary Dopp Kit – $45.00
Heavy canvas and a classic look.
Heavy canvas and a classic look.

About double the price of the previous bag, but wider and shorter. This heavy 20 ounce canvas with waterproof lining is exactly what you’re looking for. Izola also has similar bags with different designs on them. This dopp kit also has an exterior pocket, in case you need quick access to something in particular and don’t have time to dig around inside your bag. A solid option, if price isn’t as important.

 

Pottery Barn Saddle Dopp Kit – $39.00 (add $7 for monogramming)
For those into monogramming
For those into monogramming

Dopp kits are one of those rare instances in which Pottery Barn steps up to the plate and doesn’t offer some outrageously overpriced option. I personally use a dopp kit from Pottery Barn (see the featured image), but not this particular version. These make fantastic wedding presents to groomsmen, as the quality is unrivaled and a monogrammed dopp kit is not something you’re likely to buy for yourself. However, gift or not, Pottery Barn’s totally reasonable $39.00 option is one worth considering.

No matter which dopp kit you pick up, make sure it’s something that will stand the test of time. There’s something charming about an old dopp kit–the smell of your old cologne, the knicks and scuffs of travel–and maybe one day your kids will fight over it. Having a plan for a dopp kit, or having one at the ready, will make your travels much more enjoyable, and your ability to look and feel your best intact.

Which grooming items do you use the most and least when you travel? Discuss your experience in the comments.

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Grooming on a Budget: The Necessities https://dappered.com/2013/02/grooming-on-a-budget-the-necessities/ https://dappered.com/2013/02/grooming-on-a-budget-the-necessities/#comments Mon, 18 Feb 2013 10:50:16 +0000 https://dappereddev.wpenginepowered.com/?p=89170 Heads up: Buying via our links results in us getting a commission (not always, but just about), which helps keep the lights on around here. We also take your privacy rights seriously. Head here to learn more.

Andrew, Dappered’s grooming correspondent, is also the editor-in-chief of Electrogent, a men’s interest, grooming, and lifestyle website which squares the modern interests of men with the classic notions of manliness.

Just because you don’t have the largest grooming budget doesn’t mean you can’t still look and feel great. Despite what you may see on a regular basis ($125 creams in jars no larger than your thumb? No thanks…), there are actually some really great discount grooming supplies that you aren’t going to find at your neighborhood drug store. If you’re one of these guys, like myself, here are some viable options for grooming on a budget.

 

1. Speick Shaving Cream $6.50 (2.5 oz)

speick shaving cream

A bad shave can ruin anyone’s day, and there’s no reason why it should cost an arm and a leg. Speick’s shaving cream is one of the best bargain-priced shaving creams on the market. It’s glycerin-based, which means it won’t dry your skin out and its slippery texture will reduce razor burn by improving the glide on your blade. In addition, it’s preservative-free and derived from beeswax and plants; no strange chemicals here.

A single tube will last you about 35-40 shaves, which is a pretty nice lifespan for the low cost. It won’t lather as well as some of the more premium shaving creams, but it certainly isn’t a slouch. Prices can vary depending largely on shipping cost, but you can expect to pick up a tube for anywhere between $4-6.

 

2. Astra Razor Blades – $9.03 – $12.99 (for 100 blades)

Astra Blades

This is by far the best deal on this list. For those of you who have embraced the cost-saving technique of using a double edge razor, these Astra blades are a must have. If you buy them in bulk of 100, they will run you just over $10 before shipping. Considering they last around 4 shaves (depending on preference) per blade, you’re looking at around 2.5 cents a shave. Not too shabby when you compare it to the cartridge razors.

Astra blades are also fantastic because they come in tiny boxes of five, so if you’re traveling you can throw a small box in your bag (it won’t get through TSA in your carry-on, though) and hit the road. These blades are advertised as “platinum,” but let’s be real–they’re steel. Shaving with platinum would probably be terrible, anyways.
Photo Credit: A. Silva

 

3. J. R. Liggett’s Bar Shampoo – $4.00 – $7.00

Liggett shampoo bar

Disclaimer: do not use body bar soap for your hair, unless you’re camping (in which case you make do with what you have). However, there’s one type of bar you can use in your hair: J. R. Liggett’s bar shampoo. It was sort of awkward to use at first, but it quickly became a favorite of mine. Priced anywhere from $4-7 depending on your choice of formula, it’ll run you about the same as a mediocre bottle of shampoo from the grocery, and it lasts as long too. This bar shampoo is super eco-friendly, and each bar is handmade. In addition, this shampoo won’t strip your hair of its natural oils, which means you won’t need a conditioner to make up for the lost silkiness. Just use it like you would use a bar of soap in your hair, and you’re golden.

Ok guys, real talk now: do not get this stuff in your eyes. You know that no-tears baby shampoo stuff? Yeah, imagine the exact opposite of that. I don’t have a habit of getting shampoo in my eyes all the time, but it happened once–and never again. I don’t know what it is, but it will seriously hurt your eyes. Nevertheless, I strongly recommend this bar shampoo with that warning. Learn from my pain.

 

4. Cremo Face Wash – $9.00 (6 oz.)

Cremo Wash

Washing your face is one of the best ways to prevent acne and clogged pores. However, if you happen to also use an awesome face wash, you will see better results. Cremo face wash is the king (get it? the crown logo? ahem…) of budget grooming. At $9, it’s by far the best face wash you can pick up with a Hamilton. As the name suggests, this face wash is creamy and extremely potent–you won’t need to use very much. Use it in the shower for really great results, and once you step out your face will feel immediately fresher.

My main complaint is the 6 ounce bottle is kind of small, yielding you around 30-40 uses, but depending on the frequency with which you wash your face that might be just fine for you.

 

5. Rocky Mountain Shaving Co. Aftershave – $8.00 (2 oz)

Rocky Mountain Aftershave

Rocky Mountain Shaving Co. has some really unique stuff, and all of them are for affordable prices. Their aftershaves come in small bottles, but they are mighty in both smell and power. These aftershaves have amazing ingredients like cedar and frankincense all bottled up. As a result, they are the most manly-smelling aftershaves in the history of men. They are also incredibly soothing after your shave, and they’ll prevent razor burn and irritation.

The bottles are a bit small, but with aftershave you only need a little splash so the bottle will last longer than you’d imagine. If you’re looking for a quality aftershave with a uniquely awesome smell for $8, consider the Rocky Mountain Shaving Co.

What are some other suggestions you have for those who groom on a budget? Put them in the comments below.

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The 3-Part Grooming Upgrade: Your Face https://dappered.com/2013/02/the-3-part-grooming-upgrade/ https://dappered.com/2013/02/the-3-part-grooming-upgrade/#comments Mon, 11 Feb 2013 11:00:53 +0000 https://dappereddev.wpenginepowered.com/?p=88754 Heads up: Buying via our links results in us getting a commission (not always, but just about), which helps keep the lights on around here. We also take your privacy rights seriously. Head here to learn more.

Andrew is the editor-in-chief of Electrogent, a men’s interest, grooming, and lifestyle website which squares the modern interests of men with the classic notions of manliness.

As men, we’re uniquely advantaged in the upkeep department. We are usually able to take a shower, get dressed, and get out the door in about a quarter of the time as the fairer sex. However, the bare minimum is often not good enough for guys who care enough about their appearance to read this website (as it should be!). For these guys, consider this three-part grooming upgrade that will leave you feeling as great as you look, without breaking your Dappered-sized budget.

Grooming Upgrade

1. Ditch the shaving cream in a can.

Specifically, Barbasol. This stuff has a few things going for it: it’s cheap, it’s ubiquitous, and its well-known. It’s sort of like the Nickelback of the shaving world–you can listen to them, but why would you want to? You can shave with Barbasol, but why would you want to?

The real problem with the shaving cream in a can is that it was created to remove water from whatever it touches. The makers achieve this by using propellants and petroleum-based chemicals that act together to draw water away from the face. However, water on your face is one of the best ways to improve your shave (hence why it’s called “wet shaving”). Water will help raise your facial hair and wet it down in order to soften it up for a quick and painless decapitation. If you use products like Barbasol you’re going to dry out your facial hair (which means more tugging and pulling) and your skin (which will double the damage shaving alone inflicts).

To upgrade from the aerosol can, try a traditional shaving cream. For starters, it’s hard to beat the Crown Shaving Co. line. At $28 it will run you a little bit more than the cheap stuff, but should last you around 50 great quality shaves (note: Crown Shaving is a family barbershop out of Toronto, and their online ordering is via PayPal). You’ll probably also need some sort of shaving brush, and the options there are pretty much limitless. It doesn’t really matter what kind you use, but the purists prefer badger hair. Before you go dropping some cash, ask your grandpa for his–maybe he’s got an awesome one he wouldn’t mind parting with.

2. When it comes to razors, fewer blades are better than many.

We’ve all seen those cartridge razor commercials where they zoom in on an animated hair getting cut 5 times with the same cartridge, each blade cutting closer than the last one. If you have 5 blades cutting at different lengths, I’ve always wondered what purpose the other blades serve. Call me a dreamer, but those commercials beg the question, “Why can’t I just use the single razor that cuts closest to the skin?” The answer: you can.

The Merkur 163. $32 & ships free through MaxtonMen.
The Merkur 163. $32 & ships free through MaxtonMen.com

Now that your mind is blown, here’s the scoop: use a double edge razor. A double edge razor, despite its unintuitive name, contains a single blade that essentially is that one blade on the cartridge razor which cuts closest to the skin. The “double” edge name comes from its ability to flip around and cut on the other side. When you use a double edge razor, you’re cutting out all the other unnecessary blades from the equation, which means your skin has (literally) less razor sharp metal scraping against it. This will reduce razor burn, irritation, and dryness.

To ditch the cartridge razors and upgrade to a double edge, I suggest anything from the Merkur line. They are the most reasonably-priced razors for their quality, but you can certainly find some cheaper razors made from plastic. Again, same as before, ask your grandpa. I know a guy who inherited a beautiful wooden handled double edge razor from his grandpa who was going to throw it away.

3. Protect your skin with a moisturizer.

If you recoil into the fetal position when I say, “moisturizer,” you’re not without company. Most guys I know shy away from moisturizer because that’s girl stuff. Well, unfortunately, the girls have it right on this one, guys. If you want to get the most out of your grooming routine you’re going to need to use a little moisturizer every day. I know, I know.

$26 for 2 oz, $42 for 4.
$42 for 4 oz via Amazon.

Moisturizer is incredibly useful stuff. Most (good) moisturizers have some sort of low SPF built in, which is great for everyday casual protection from the sun (you’ll need to use more powerful stuff if you head out to the beach, though). In addition, moisturizers both prevent oily skin and softens up dry skin by providing the perfect middle ground for your skin. Lastly, moisturizing lowers the amount of sebum your skin produces. Sebum is that gross waxy stuff that builds up in your pores and causes pimples. A good moisturizer will act as a substitute for your skin’s sebum, lowering the instances of sebum-induced blackheads.

The absolute best (considering quality and cost) moisturizer on the market is Urth’s face balm (usually $42 for 4 oz.  Ships free through Amazon if you have Prime). Yeah, the upfront price is pretty steep, but I’ve used the same 4 ounce bottle for close to a year because you only need to use a dab about the size of a pencil eraser. It has everything you can want in a moisturizer, and when used after a nice shave, will help repair your skin back to its natural state.

In conclusion, switching to a traditional shaving cream, a single-blade razor, and using a quality moisturizer are three great upgrades you can make for your skin without breaking the bank or going full-on Mrs. Doubtfire at a spa. Continued application of this 3-part routine will surely bring beneficial changes to your skin over time.

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Hair Product Battle: Low Shine & Mid Hold https://dappered.com/2010/06/hair-product-battle-low-shine-mid-hold/ https://dappered.com/2010/06/hair-product-battle-low-shine-mid-hold/#comments Thu, 03 Jun 2010 08:00:58 +0000 https://dappereddev.wpenginepowered.com/?p=17675 Heads up: Buying via our links results in us getting a commission (not always, but just about), which helps keep the lights on around here. We also take your privacy rights seriously. Head here to learn more.

Tea Tree Shaping Cream 3.5 oz – $14.50 | Alterna Modeling Clay 2.0 oz – $16.40

A guy’s hair will look its best when it lands somewhere between the extremes of the wet and shiny look from the cast of Friends, and the dry and poofy look of Novak Djokovich.  You want some texture and you want some hold.  Anything more than that and you start to look either like a kid, or you just crawled out of O Brother Where art Thou.  Here’s two widely available products that strike the right balance, with the pros and cons for each.

Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Shaping Cream – $14.50 for 3.5 oz

The Drier Tea Tree
The Heavier Tea Tree

Pros:

  • Solid medium to firm hold.
  • Emulsifies quickly.
  • Has a terrific fresh, masculine, and not overpowering smell.
  • Pretty dry to the touch.  More solid than liquid.
  • Inexpensive at around $4.00 / Oz

Cons:

  • If your hair is almost totally dry, it might give unwanted volume.
  • Emulsifies quickly but leaves your hands very sticky
  • Can get somewhat shiny if applied to damp hair.

Overall Grade: A –  | A really good hair product for guys with short to medium short hair.  If you hate the uni-directional hair movement that clippers can leave you with (see Djokovich), this stuff is perfect to give your hair texture and shape.

Alterna Modeling Clay – $16.40 for 2.0 oz

The Lighter Alterna
The Lighter Alterna

Pros:

  • Unbelievably light going in.  Medium hold that seems to come out of nowhere
  • Not really any kind of high glaze shine, even when applied damp.
  • Doesn’t add too much extra body to hair when applied dry

Cons:

  • Stronger hold might require a bit more product than suggested
  • Almost seems to evaporate when you rub your hands together.  But… it’s there.
  • More liquid than solid right out of the jar.
  • Somewhat expensive at $8.20/oz
  • Smells strongly of cucumbers.  Fades after application… but still.

Overall Grade:  B+ |  I’d give it an A if it weren’t for the cucumber smell which is a bit distracting at first.  If you’ve got medium to medium long hair, this product goes in so light you’ll think “How is this going to work?.”  But it doesn’t disappoint.  Leaves your hair with a matte finish that’s pliable, moves a touch, but still holds well.

What’s your go-to low shine & mid hold hair product?  Leave any suggestions in the comments below…

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