About the Author: Carlon H. is the creator of The Shoe Enthusiast, an Instagram and Youtube channel devoted to his love of footwear. When he’s not taking daily shots of shoes or doing a Youtube review, he’s a High School administrator and teacher in Texas. While not at work, Carlon parents two amazing daughters.

I want to get one thing out of the way: I have a somewhat large shoe collection. Not as many as some people, but more than most. As of today, I have 25 pairs of shoes and boots. But Rome wasn’t built in a day and neither was my shoe collection. I have spent the last 9 years building a collection of shoes and all of that was on a very tight budget. So, I thought I’d share some of my tips and tricks for building a shoe collection on a shoestring budget.

Before we begin, one thing: make a budget and stick to it. Everyone’s budget is different, but none of these things work unless you actually create a budget. Know how much you have to spend and you will be on your way to an amazing shoe collection.

Pro tip: I keep my budget in a separate account so I know how much to spend. A PayPal account is a good idea.

#1. Always keep in mind: This is a hobby. You don’t need the shoes.

Leading with the most important point. Collecting, by its nature, is a hobby. Rarely do you actually need a pair of shoes. You may want them, but you don’t need them. You may need a particular kind of shoe (think a formal shoe for a wedding) but you may not need that $500 pair of shoes you’ve been looking at. By keeping this mindset, you won’t make impulsive buying decisions.

(Shown above are vintage Cole Haan wingtips from back when made in the USA. Here’s an unboxing video for them…)

#2. Only buy shoes on sale.

Pro tip: Beware of overpriced shoes that go “on sale” for $900. The inflated value of things that are always “on sale” are not really on sale.

The truth is that 90% of brands go on sale. Never buy at full price. Because you don’t need the shoes (see rule #1), you can always wait for them to go on sale. I have a list of shoes that I would like to buy but wait for them to go on sale at a price within my budget.

How do you find the sales? You’re reading one right now. Dappered.com is a good source for sales. Also, I am a member of a lot of subreddits dedicated to sales so find whichever works best for you. You can also join many shoemakers’ newsletters. They have no problem letting you know when they’re running a promotion.

(Shown above are Carmina crocodile jodhpur boots, purchased for around $120… they retailed around $700 as a special Made to Order pair for Leatherfoot Emporium which is no longer in business…)

#3. eBay is your friend.

Pro tip: Before the 90’s, brands like Florsheim, Johnston & Murphy, and Cole Haan made very high-quality shoes. So, in many cases, the vintage version is superior to most of the new shoes you can buy today from the same brand.

Pro Pro tip: Vintage Florsheim in particular are very popular, but often times overpriced. So even for pre-owned shoes on eBay, it may be out of budget. Shown above are Florsheim 93602 Gunboats, purchased for around $100… I got LUCKY.

You can get both new and pre-owned shoes on eBay. Usually when I’m on eBay I look for new old stock and new in box shoes. These will typically be brand new shoes or shoes that have been tried on but never purchased.

And then there’s the pre-owned shoes. I know some of you are reading this thinking that it’s just gross to wear another person’s shoes. But before you dismiss the idea, there are good reasons to buy pre-owned shoes. First, there are simply shoes that are no longer made. For example, a popular style among shoe enthusiasts are what’s shown above: vintage Florsheim “gunboats” with a v-cleat heel that were once made in the USA. They are built like tanks. Modern Florsheims don’t come close in terms of quality. So, if you want them, you’re gonna have to buy them pre-owned (or, new old stock if you’re super lucky).

Another reason to buy pre-owned is price. I have personally bought shoes on ebay for under a hundred dollars that retail for $500. But the key here is that all pre-owned shoes are not created equal.

Think of shoes the way you would a car. Once you drive a car off the lot, it loses value. But that doesn’t mean there’s anything wrong with it and it’s basically brand new. So, you want to find shoes that are as close to new as possible. To get an idea of how many times a shoe has been worn, you should look at the soles. Generally, if a shoe has been worn less than 5 times, you have a good shot that they had yet to mold to the foot of its original owner. That’s what to look for. You can get tremendous value with those shoes and find yourself in possession of some high-quality shoes at ridiculously cheap prices.

For pre-owned shoes, there are other places to get them online, but I use eBay because they have the widest variety. Other places to look are:

• Grailed
• Etsy
• Poshmark

#4. Don’t be afraid to trade.

This may not be something you’ve thought about, but make friends with people who wear your size. You can trade shoes you don’t wear for those you may want to wear. I have made some friends along the way who are my “size twins”, and sometimes we do, in fact, trade shoes. Why is this a good option over just selling them? A few reasons:

People who trade shoes probably take good care of their shoes. I certainly do. You likely can’t sell your old shoes for anywhere near what you paid for them, hence the great deals you can get with my above-mentioned eBay advice. Also, your style might change and a trade will yield better value over time than re-selling shoes that you no longer wear and buying a new pair.

(Shown above are vintage Hanover George boots. They were likely made in the 50s or 60s by a shoe company that no longer exists… perhaps from leather from a tannery in Freudenberg that also no longer exists. That’s the thing about shoestring shoe collecting. You end up with one of a kind finds.)

#5. Thrifting! It’s the highest risk but also highest reward.

As some people have noted, thrifting is not as great as some people make it out to be. However! You can’t beat $10-$20 for thrifted shoes in good condition. And if they are shoes that can be recrafted like Allen Edmonds, you may end up with “new shoes” for about $100 by having a cobbler put on new soles and heels. (Entire articles have been written across the web about thrifting used Allen Edmonds shoes and then having them resurrected through recrafting. I’m not going to repeat it all here, but just know it’s possible.)

I’ve had decent luck with thrifting and even picked up a few tricks to restore shoes that have turned my $10 shoes into the expensive and quality shoes they once were. I also think thrifting is a good idea if you are trying out a style you’ve never worn before. I mean if you don’t like it, you can just donate it back.

(Shown above are thrifted Mezlan Loafers. I got them for dirt cheap, being that they were a thrift store find.)

Pro Tip: I have used thrifted shoes to practice my shoe care skills. Doing this serves a couple of good purposes. First, it’s a good way not to ruin your good shoes if you’re trying some shoe care trick you saw someone do on YouTube. Many a good pair of shoes has been ruined trying to copy YouTube videos. (Think stripping shoes with acetone..it’s a thing that must be done very carefully.) Secondly, you can sell those restored shoes on eBay in order to buy new shoes. It’s not a major source of income for me, but has always added more money to my shoe budget and allowed my collection to expand. Also, it’s just a fun and relaxing hobby.

Good luck, happy collecting, and always remember: You don’t NEED the shoes!

Want more from Carlon, The Shoe Enthusiast? Head to his Instagram handle and Youtube channel devoted to his love of footwear. If you’d like a video version of these tips, check out that upload here!

New Republic Apollo Sneakers – $73.50 w/ TOGETHER ($98)

About the Author: Adam Terry is a thirtysomething Technical Trainer in the heating and manufacturing industry. He enjoys bourbon, boots, sneakers, raw denim, and being a dad!

As the former Creative Director/Designer of J. Press, Southwick, Woolrich, Bass, and much more, Mark McNairy is a CFDA-recognized menswear designer who knows a thing or two about designing shoes. My Greensboro, NC-born brother from another mother signed on to design shoes for the New Republic brand back in 2016. The New Republic team quickly realized that “it’s really about fashion and the guy out there is looking for on-trend products as frequently as possible.” So, how do these budget focused minimalist sneakers stack up against their competition in the sub-$100 market? Let’s find out.

It’s showtime with the Apollo… sneakers.

Details

• Brand: New Republic
• Style: Minimalist white sneakers
• Size: 10.5 US (43.5 EU)
• Last: N/A
• Construction: Glued and stitched sole
• Leather: Action leather
• Sole: Ultra-light EVA foam
• Details: TENCEL mesh lining, colorful heel tab, and flat cotton laces
• Extras: N/A
• Country of Origin: China
• Price: $98

About Adam’s Scoring System: The Adam Shoe Scale of Justice (A.S.S.J.) is as follows: 5 – Excellent! No issues and highly recommended. 4 – Good. Above average, but not perfect. 3 – Average. Minor issues, might be good at the right price. 2 – Fair. Below average due to defects, flaws, or imperfections. 1 – Poor. Significant issues, not worth purchasing at any price.

Ordering/Delivery/Returns

My Apollos launched from the New Republic warehouse in Los Angeles on a Wednesday and were docked at my door on a Friday a full nine days later. That’s over twice as long as the typical UPS delivery. Some of that delay could be chalked up to the high-end EF3 tornado that ripped a 60+ mile long, half a mile-wide path through Nashville, TN the week before buuuut Amazon had no problems delivering stuff. With that said, NR does say that orders generally take 7-10 business days to arrive to the customer.

New Republic offers an “entry level” 14-day return policy with a prepaid return shipping label in the box, but you’re on the hook for the original shipping fees.

Score: 3/5 Stars – Easy ordering, kinda slow shipping, and basic 14-day return policy.

Hoping the heat shield holds.

Packaging

The two “leather” sneakers arrived wrapped in plastic in a New Republic branded box that opens on one end, like a loaf of bread. There were no spare laces or storage bags, but at this price point, that’s pretty standard. There was also a pair of cards extolling the virtues of the “engineered technical materials” but that’s just extraneous marketing fluff.

Score: 5/5 Stars – At this price point, no complaints.

First Impressions

Have you ever smelled something that instantly activated your memory bank and took you back to someplace else? Maybe it was a slice of mozzarella cheese that had you salivating for some deep-dish Chicago pizza, or maybe it was the scent of someone’s perfume that reminded you of your ex. When I opened this New Republic box, my sniffer was delivered a hint of that sickeningly sweet cheap shoe “leather” that instantly took me back to shopping at Shoe Carnival when I was a kid. I even had my wife double check to make sure I wasn’t stroking out and smelling my own version of “burnt toast” but she confirmed! Looking into this a little deeper, these Apollo sneakers are made with “action leather” which is really just medium to low quality leather splits that get buffed smooth and then lacquered with a polyurethane coating. Apparently, this leather is super common in the sneaker industry with most cheap white sneakers using it. I guess that’s why the smell hit so close to home!

Leather has that cheap smell. Out of the box, it’ll stir your olfactory tanks.

Looking past the upper leather, the navy-blue colored heel tabs and punched side panels are reminiscent of Stan Smiths while the rest of the minimalistic silhouette leans hard into the Common Projects Achilles vibe. Those are good things in my opinion – no distracting stitching or other weird details. The flat white cotton laces are surprisingly nice, too, but I do wish they were waxed for more durability.

Molded memory foam insole. A cushioned sea of… tranquility? 

The super squishy removable insole is made from molded memory foam and feels like a little perforated pillow for your piggies. The TENCEL mesh lining feels like wearing a pique polo shirt on your feet. Soft and breathable for sure, but I’d recommend wearing socks or hand washing the mesh semi-frequently as I’ve read reports that the fabric likes to hold onto foot funk. New Republic and your friendly, local shoe nerds recommend letting them air dry frequently if possible. Cedar shoe trees can help reduce this, too.

Glued AND Stitched uppers. Failure is not an option!
Okay, the foam soles will wear out. but, nice to see some stitching at least.

The lightweight EVA foam outsole is both glued and stitched to the upper. A handful of long-term reports say that the glue eventually fails but the stitching holds tight after years of regular wear and tear. Odds are you’ll wear out the foam soles before the glue and stitching ever become a problem.

Score: 4/5 Stars – Looking past the “leather”, they’re surprisingly decent for being “cheap”.

VERY comfortable. Eat our collective shorts, 9.8 m/s2!

Fit, Sizing, and Comfort

The Apollo sneakers fit a little small and a little short. The tox box is fairly wide and rounded, but there’s not a lot of room in front of my toes. This might change as they break in, but I’d recommend sizing up a half-size for a bit more room. Try your normal Nike or Adidas size first.

Fit is a little small and a little short. Try half a size up, and they’re weirdly comfortable.
NOT like flying with a dead elephant on your back.

For reference, I am a 10.5 D/E on a Brannock device and usually take a 10 D in most dress shoes, including Alden’s Barrie last and Grant Stone’s Leo last. I take a 10.5 E in Allen Edmonds 65 last, as that last runs too narrow for me. I also take a 10.5 in Vans and an 11 in most Adidas or Nike sneakers. The pair I tried here were a 10.5.

Comfort is always subjective but, in my opinion, these things are VERY comfortable. I’m not sure how durable all of the soft materials are, but comfort is clearly a priority for this brand. Walking on the Moon? I imagine it’s pretty dang close to this.

Score: 4/5 Stars – Fits small, but comfort levels are off the charts. Size up a half-size.

It’s been a pleasure flying with wearing you. 

Final Thoughts

I believe it’s pretty rare to find something “cheap” that truly exceeds your expectations these days. Coming into this review with zero expectations, I’m surprised to say that the New Republic Apollo sneakers are actually pretty decent when your primary focus is on comfort rather than durability. Make no mistake, these are “cheap” shoes and the almost $100 MSRP is not exactly inexpensive. Personally, I’d like to see them under $75 MSRP, but they do go on sale occasionally. The Apollos are probably not as O.G. cool or as stylish as the Adidas Stan Smiths or Nike Killshot 2s, BUT I think they’re more comfortable and pretty decent overall. Give them a try and see if you think they’re as comfortable as I did. Let us know what you think!

Avg. Score: 4/5 Stars – Pretty dang comfortable for the price, especially when on sale.

This has been one small step for a sneaker reviewing man…
One, good sized leap in comfort, for cheap-sneaker kind.

Pick one pair of shoes from the following categories and your footwear needs will be covered for the majority of life’s adventures. These are the essential shoes that every stylish guy needs to manage weddings, job interviews, work, travel, dates, and the like. They’re the foundation on which you can build onwards and upwards from. Each pair of shoes on this list meets the following criteria:

• Covers multiple, common situations
• Affordable options are easy to find
• They lean more traditional (nothing too wacky/super modern)

#1. The Mandatory Black Oxford

• Jack Erwin “Joe” Oxford – $195
• Massimo Matteo Oxford Cap Toe – $159
• Banana Republic Italian Leather Cap-Toe Oxford – $95ish 
• Allen Edmonds Park Avenue – $395
• Allen Edmonds Carlyle Oxford – $395

There’s no getting around it; we all need a pair of formal black oxfords. Funerals, job interviews, black tie weddings, and other inevitable life events call for this shoe. Your black oxfords might be the least worn shoe in your closet, but you’ll be happy to have them on hand (and on foot) for those important occasions.

#2. The Indispensable Brown Brogue

• Allen Edmonds Strand – $395
• Charles Tyrwhitt Brown Goodyear Welted Oxford – $199
• Johnston & Murphy Conard Cap Toe Oxford – $169
• Suitsupply Brown Cap Toe Oxfords – $299
• Grant Stone LWB Crimson Chromexcel – $350

Wingtip, cap-toe, long-wing, balmoral, or blucher. Brogues come in a wide variety of styles and levels of formality. Choose one that fits your weekly lifestyle best. Brown brogues can be worn with anything from a suit, to a pair of dark, well fitting denim, from khakis to flannel trousers. Darker brown will be more versatile, yet lighter brown will be more eye-catching (as shown above with the walnut Allen Edmonds Strand).

#3. The Obligatory Boots

• Allen Edmonds Higgins Mill – $395
• Huckberry Rhodes Dean Boot – $220
• Banana Republic Norman – $90ish
• Clarks Men’s Bushacre 2 Chukkas – $60ish
• Jack Erwin Mason Chukka – $195
• Allen Edmonds Dalton Wingtip Boot – $445 

Boots are perfect for those days when the weather is rough, and lesser weaker shoes let the elements nip at your delicate, sensitive mankles. Office warriors can add a touch of rebellion to their work outfit by swapping the oxford shoes for a pair of dress boots. Life travelers can treat their ankles to a pair of suede chukkas. Londoners and Australian businessmen can wear black Chelsea Boots everywhere. Yes, everywhere.

#4. The Essential Casual Shoes

• Jack Erwin Suede Penny Loafer – $195
• Florsheim Bucktown Plain Ox – $114.95
• 1901 Stucker Plain Toe Derby- $109.95
• J. Crew Oar Stripe Penny Loafers in Italian Suede – $248
• Banana Republic Dellbrook Italian Leather Loafer – $90ish
• Nordstrom Patrick Driving Moccasin – $114.95

A category that covers many styles (penny loafers, drivers, bucks, etc.) These are shoes for days when we don’t want to dress to the nines. We want something informal and comfortable, and we want to look damn fine in our leisure.

#5. The Versatile Low Top Sneakers

• adidas Stan Smith – $75
• Banana Republic Nicklas – $75ish
• Nike Killshot – $90 (fine, I give in) 
• Superga Cotu Classic – $64
• Good Man Brand Legend Sneaker in White – $198
• Sperry Top-Sider Striper LL CVO – $59.95

For when you’re at your most casual, yet not at the gym, it’s tough to beat a pair of classic low top kicks. Why low top? High tops are great and all, but they’re pretty tough to wear with shorts in the summer. Low top, canvas, suede, or leather sneakers can be worn year round with a variety of outfits. Get them in white or a neutral shade and they’ll go with everything.

How I went from disinterested in shoes, to owning more than a dozen.

About the author: Dave I. (aka DocDave on Threads) has been a Dappered reader for several years. His interest in fashion started with shoes and expanded to encompass watches, suits, and general men’s style. When not thinking about his next purchase he can be found enjoying a pint of locally brewed craft beer.

So the time has come. For whatever reason, you decide to start dressing nicer and need a place to start. But where? –  New pants? New shirts? New shoes? New underwear? The possibilities are endless, and can be daunting. Besides, once you find your starting point, how do you go about building your wardrobe? For me, I struggled with all of this. In my case, my path to sartorial goodness started literally from the ground up; with a simple pair of shoes.

Before the Beginning: There were Blundstones. And that was it.

For years I owned and wore only one pair of shoes, and that pair of shoes were Blundstones. For the unfamiliar, they’re sort of a work-boot Chelsea hybrid. Not anywhere as slim & sleek as a Chelsea, but no laces. It didn’t matter if I was wearing a suit and tie, a pair of jeans, or a pair of chinos. The shoes that accompanied my outfit were black Blundstones. I wore them all. the. time. At no point in time did it ever occur to me to purchase a different pair of shoes. The Blunnies would suffice because after all, it was just footwear. Who pays any attention to shoes?

My first love: Blundstones.

One day about three years ago, while sitting in a business meeting (I was wearing a suit and my Blunnies, of course), I noticed the slick Chelsea boots a colleague was wearing. I looked at my Blundstones. I looked at his shoes. And I took that first step along the dressing-better-journey that so many of us have taken. I opened my mouth and casually said, “Hey, nice shoes. Where did you get them?” His response was something along the lines of “Why are you interested, you wear the same shoes day-in and day-out.” (Editor’s note: Not cool. It takes some guts to ask that kind of thing.) Ouch! Now that was cutting. Good thing I’d known the guy for years, and like any male whose authority was threatened, I was determined to show my friend that I, too, could own a good pair of shoes. To the internet I went!

My leap of faith looked just like AE Fifth Streets.

My web surfing (thanks Google) led me to a post on Dappered that highlighted a sale on Allen Edmonds shoes. Taking a chance on what was written, and being a complete fashion noob, I took the plunge and bought a pair of black Fifth Street boots. Remember, I always wore black Blundstones, and while these looked like fancy dress shoes, they were still boots. Baby steps my friends. Baby steps. This was a huge gamble for me as a) this was more money than I’d ever spent on a pair of shoes in my life and b) I had never tried on a pair of AE shoes before. I was gambling that the Fifth Streets would fit true to size.

My gateway shoes: Jet black Allen Edmonds Fifth Street Boots

A week or so later, my Fifth Streets arrived and I took them for a spin around the office. Wow. Talk about an immediate change in not only my appearance, but also how I was perceived. Suddenly people whom I had been working with for years started commenting on what I was wearing. This was new territory for me. My suits hadn’t changed. My shirts hadn’t changed. Just the shoes. And they were black, classic cap toe oxfords with some brogue details, only in boot form. I hadn’t thrown on a pair of flashy monk straps, yet people still took notice. Who knew shoes could make such a big difference? Certainly not I.

Kicking the acquisition of kicks into high gear.

About a month or so later, I decided to pick up another pair of non-blundstone shoes. And this time, I didn’t just dip a toe into the wingtip-waters, I dove in head first. These shoes were from a local shoe store and they had some flair; instead of being monotone, they were a mixture of brown and dark blue. Two months ago I owned nothing but black blundstones. Now I was taking risks. I decided to pick up another pair that was less flashy, and settled on a pair of inexpensive brown suede saddle shoes. Again, paring these and my new Fifth Streets with my rotation of work clothes generated comments from colleagues and friends alike. It was like I had stumbled on this secret sartorial garden that no one else knew about.

You wanna get nuts? LET’S GET NUTS.

Perhaps the most memorable comment during this time came from a colleague. “Dave, I don’t know much about women, but I do know that they like a man who wears nice shoes”. Those colleagues’ words by the way definitely turned out to be true (I asked out my current girlfriend soon after). From that moment forward I was sold. Nice shoes became a part of my life. Over the next twelve months my shoe collection expanded from one pair of Blundstones to approximately 12 pairs of dress shoes.

The end, and how it now starts, every day.

My whole attitude towards style has done a complete 180. When planning what I am going to wear for the day, I begin from the ground up. My shoes influence what the rest of my wardrobe will be. Instead of my shoes being a complete afterthought, given no consideration at all, they have become the focal point of my wardrobe. This change in attitude had not come to my attention until one day early in in 2013, when coming into the office I found a note taped to my office door that read “Shoe King”.

I didn’t know whether to smile or assume I was being mocked. I chose to smile. After reading the note, I realized my days of wearing one and only one pair of shoes had come to an end. Various styles of shoes were now part of my life, and they were a great way to launch my decision making for what I was going to wear each day.

Oh and those Blundstones? Yeah, they still get worn. Just not with a suit and tie anymore.

You can hear the consternation now: “But there IS no such thing as a good, cheap pair of shoes!” Sure, if you’re a shoe snob. But for plenty of us, it’s quite possible to wear a pair of glued-sole, not the best leather, decent looking shoes for years. You just have to know what you’re looking for. That, and not all of us want to get married to a pair of shoes. Sometimes it’s good to date around, discover the good signs & bad signs of a potential mate, and learn to avoid certain pitfalls. We’re still talking about shoes here, right?

What pieces in a guy’s wardrobe can you go cheap on without getting burned? Which items are you better off saving up for? Everyone’s situation is different, but here’s a breakdown of what you could maybe SKIMP on, and what you’re better off SPENDING a good chunk of change for.

Suits – SKIMP at first, then SPEND

If you don’t wear a suit much, you can absolutely get away with a cheap, fused, tailored-for-your-body-suit. It might even look terrific. But it’s not going to feel like a well built, half or whole canvassed suit. Cheaply made “fused” suit jackets feel stiff thanks to the glue that holds them together. And that glue can break down, causing ugly wrinkles under the fabric over the years & dry-cleanings. Higher quality canvassed suits with heavier floating chest pieces move with you. These jackets even form to your body over time and should get better with age. With brands like Suitsupply providing high quality half (and full) canvassed suits for a reasonable price, they’re worth saving up for… IF… you make a point of wearing it. For those with little desire to wear a suit, consider the more affordable options (like the JCF Thompson) before spending $400+.

Left: Claiborne for <$200. Right: Suitsupply for around $500.
The Clairborne looks decent enough, but the feel & durability of the Suitsupply is noticeably superior.

Outerwear – SPEND

Imagine wearing the same suit every day. You’d want it to be top notch, right? That’s the situation with your choice of outerwear. Your wool topcoat or trench is worth the investment since you’ll be wearing it so much. Same goes for a leather jacket if that’s your thing. Doesn’t mean you can’t hold out for a deal on them, but be prepared to not go super-cheap. Skimping on casual, lighter-weight jackets usually won’t have as negative effects.

Shoes – BOTH

One of the more divisive topics in men’s style. But the thing is, if you’re not in dress shoes every day (hello business casual workplace) a good rotation of well built, yet still bonded-sole shoes allows for dispersion of wear & tear, PLUS you get to try out different styles. It’s like dating… for your feet. Once you figure out what you like and want to get “married” to a pair for a decade or so, go ahead and lay down the cash for shoes with a stitched welt that can be resoled.

Top: Zara – $50. Bottom: Allen Edmonds – $250.
Why not both?

Blazers – SPEND on one (navy), SKIMP on the rest

A well tailored, high quality wool navy blazer is a guy’s best friend… and worth the extra cash. Look for something that’ll go great with trousers, chinos, and jeans. For the other blazers and sportcoats in your closet, feel free to go with fused, lower quality wool, wool blends, or cottons. And if you’re just starting to get into wearing blazers + sportcoats, lean towards the cheap options FIRST. That way you and your tailor get some practice dialing in a jacket for your frame before you spend good money on something more expensive.

Chinos – SKIMP… until you find a perfect fit.

Might as well call this Bonobos/Dockers Alpha Syndrome. Dink around with Target brands and on-sale GAP/BR chinos until you land on a perfect fit. It could very well be one of those cheaper options. But if you end up loving the Bonobos straight fit or the Dockers Alpha Khaki (for you slimmer guys)… then it’ll be hard to go back to something that doesn’t fit just right.

Jeans – SKIMP

Apologies to the denim-heads and selvage fiends out there… but there’s hardly a better deal in men’s style than a pair of dark wash Levis for $30 – $40.

Great price for an incredible staple.

Dress Shirts – SPEND on two (white & light blue), SKIMP for the rest.

See the hierarchy over here. For the most used shirts in your closet (white + light blue) get something that fits perfectly off the rack (like a ratio/clothing shirt) or can be easily tailored, has a nice feel to the fabric (like Nordstrom’s house brand), and the collar and button stance (like Ledbury) is perfect for your needs. Meanwhile, investing a bit in getting even the cheapest shirts tailored is still well worth it.

Casual Shirts – SKIMP

UNIQLO, jcp OCBDs, the slim fits from J. Crew Factory… chances are you’ll be layering these under a sweater or a tailored sportcoat or blazer. Don’t decimate your wardrobe budget on button ups.

Polos – SKIMP

Don’t pay for a logo. Between Target, UNIQLO, and on sale BR Luxe Touch polos, it’s hard to pay more than $40 for a polo shirt. Let alone $825. Here’s to hoping another line of Uniqlo x Michael Bastian polos show up in the spring, and they make more this time around than the sold-out-too-fast batch from this year.

Logos? We don’t need no stinkin’ Logos. Uniqlo – $20
Leaves more money for Slim Jims. OOOH YEAH!

Sweaters – SKIMP

When you factor in costs, Merino + a great fit > Cashmere. Unless you’re giving a gift. Then a cashmere sweater is a great gift to give, if you can manage to pay for the huge cost that comes with it.

Ties – SKIMP

TheTieBar has made it awfully hard to spend more than fifteen bucks on a tie. Yes, there’s a major difference in feel, how the tie sits + the knot it ties… but still.

Belts – SKIMP

To plenty, a belt is just a belt. And that opinion can be magnified by the fact that there are plenty of inexpensive belts that hold up real well over time. Some cheap belts are crap, but others aren’t. The GAP basic belt (in both brown and black) is one of those do-almost-anything, cheap (like, often under $20) belts that’ll treat you well for years. Shown below: Both the brown and black after at least 5 years of solid use. One or two blown stitches, but other than that, perfect. For dress belts, keep an eye out at Nordstrom Rack and TJ Maxx.

Sunglasses – SPEND

If you’re clumsy or tend to lose sunglasses, then skimp. Otherwise, and it stinks that prices are so high, spend. Because with reasonable care, a well made pair of sunglasses will last just about forever. BUT… there are a couple of affordable yet still well made options: See American Optics and Warby Parker.

Watches – SKIMP

Skimp, but in a big picture sense. If it’s quartz… skimp. Unless you’re absolutely in love with it. If it’s an automatic/mechanical, go low/high. Meaning: lower in relative cost (in comparison to Rolex & Omega) but higher when it comes to looks and reliability. Automatics from Sekio, Orient, Tissot, Hamilton, and Christopher Ward provide a ton of bang for the buck. Why all the fuss about automatics/mechanicals? It’s hard to explains. Maybe quartz is to a car with an automatic transmission, as a mechanical watch is to a car with a stick shift? That’s still not quite right, but it’s kinda close. Unnecessary romance, but romance all the same.

One is quartz and was $80. The other isn’t either of those things. They both keep solid time.

Haircuts – SPEND… every three weeks

Doesn’t matter if you go to a $12 barber who’s been cutting hair for half a century, or a $30-per-cut salon. When it comes to your hair, you don’t want to skimp on the # of times you go and visit a year. Set up a rolling appointment for every three weeks. Say, Wednesdays after work. You’ll be getting just a trim. That way you never look like you just got a haircut, or, you really need a haircut. You’ll always be in that sweet spot.

Cars – SKIMP

There are a lot of guys who are “car-poor”. They shell out so much on their car payment each month, that they can’t afford to do anything else. Look into something older with character. Or, something on the newer side that’s still a bit odd. Pay the sucker off. Wait a few years. Get financially stable and then dive back into the market on something you’ve always coveted. Or just ride your bike and take public transportation. Got a date? Uber.

Booze – SPEND on Brown. SKIMP on Clear.

Cheap brown liquors can be downright awful. Spending a bit more for an aged, high quality Scotch, Bourbon, or Rum usually pays off. Spending more on big name Vodka or Gin usually doesn’t. Of course there are exceptions, but while Broker’s can crank out an outstanding gin for under $20, it’s tough to find a maker that does the same for the brown stuff.

Upgrading the typical warm weather College Casual Outfit

Dressing well in college can be tough. Classes and social activities take up a good chunk of time, and if you have a job, well, that’s another commitment entirely. But, a lack of time from all of those things isn’t an excuse to dress poorly — in fact, they’re reasons to upgrade your style. If you’re going back to campus in a few weeks, or you graduated recently, chances are you’ve seen (or will see) guys make some poor, poor clothing choices. Everyone makes mistakes, but those can easily be avoided by switching out common items for some more, well, polished pieces.

In the warm months of the year, it seems for a lot of guys that there’s a go-to outfit repeated over and over, nearly everywhere: gaudy graphic tee or logo tee, baggy cargo shorts, athletic sneakers. It’s an easy, safe bet for most guys to throw on, but if you want to stand out in a positive way, some would say there are better options.

The upgrades are relatively simple, and it’s easy to pick out an outfit that’ll keep you cool in the heat without sacrificing looks. Switch out that graphic tee for a well-fitting polo, preferably something with a bit of color, and boom, instantly more polished. If you’re looking to upgrade your style on a budget, places like Old Navy or Uniqlo have them for ridiculously low prices. The Old Navy Uniform polos are a good buy. Granted, the quality isn’t that of a polo from J. Crew or another higher priced brand, but it does the job just fine in the meantime. Fit is decently trim through the body and sleeves, and they come in a number of colors.  No matter the brand, once you find one, it’s a piece that can help you quickly turn things around while you save up for larger style upgrades.

On the shorts front, a pair that hits above the knee while fitting slim seems to be in short supply on a decent number of college guys. Why add all the unnecessary pockets of cargo shorts, even if slim-fitting options exist? For about the price of a particularly wild (or not wild?) bar crawl, Land’s End Comer Chino Shorts (as worn here in these photos), do the trick perfectly, eliminating the pockets and extra fabric while providing another pop of color (especially if you keep the polo neutral).

And on your feet, you want a pair of shoes that’s comfortable enough to make the trek across campus, but clean and simple enough to take you out for a meal afterwards. In the photo, those are Vans sneakers (in the chambray option) from Urban Outfitters. Depending on where you pick yours up, that could be the most expensive part of the outfit (those were something like $60 in-store at the time). But, in a neutral shade, they can be worn sockless and with any color shorts or polo. They can also pull duty with jeans or cuffed chinos, and they avoid the ostentatious logo of some athletic sneakers. All good things, right?

On your wrist, it’s tough to beat a Timex Weekender for casual wear (or maybe a field watch with a neutral strap?). The dial runs small on some larger guys, but for most, it’ll be a nice, understated size at an extremely reasonable price point ($20 – $30). The slip-thru strap option allows you to add even more variety to your outfit, and compared to some ‘fashion’ watches out there nowadays, it’s more versatile and classic-looking.

There you have it. An outfit like this isn’t world-beating by any means; it wouldn’t make any street style shots or end up on the runways, but sometimes, simplicity is better – much better. Heck, wear an outfit like this two or three days a week, switching out the bottom for jeans and desert boots or the like, and there’s a good chance you’ll out dress many of your classmates. Upping your style game in ways like this will catch the attention of your professors as well, and dressing with a more formal bent just makes you feel better, more confident and hopefully, more alert for those 8 a.m. classes. Now, go hit the books.

Beau is a senior editor at The State News, Michigan State’s student newspaper. A #menswear enthusiast, Beau can be found on Twitter @BoKnowsClothes. He aspires to one day own the ‘Bond’ peacoat.

Zara Launches an Online Store

Hat tip to Matthew N. and “there’s more to life than J. freakin’ Crew” jlc for the style tips.

Here’s the issue with H&M and Uniqlo.  They don’t sell online (yet) so not everyone has access to them.  That was especially the case with the Spanish fashion giant Zara, who until a few days ago, also didn’t have an online store and only had about 50 locations in the U.S.  Most of which are clustered on the coasts (15 of them are in LA and NYC).  So if you were in flyover country, you most likely had no idea what the hell a “Zara” was.

That changed on Wednesday as Zara took the huge step to selling online, and celebrated with a pretty slick “Dear America” photo lineup which features one shot from each state.  Nice tribute.  Well done.

Zara is more modern and fashion centric than minimalist and timelessly stylish.  Certainly inexpensive, but there’s a lot of synthetic materials flying around.  Feels a little like a grown up ASOS since they’re selling drop crotch pants and all.  Here’s a few early picks.  Be ready with your take in the comments…
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The Shoes:  Vintage Oxford – $99.90 | Brogue – $99.90

Finding a pair of interesting, slightly dressed up shoes you can wear with jeans and chinos on your downtime can make a big difference.  The Vintage Oxford looks like they could fill that role perfectly if not do some duty with real dressed up stuff.  Believe it or not, the Brogue comes with a leather sole.
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The Coats:  Herringbone Coat – $169 | Sheepskin Collar Coat – $229

The Herringbone coat is simple and straightforward.  It’s also a good example of how Zara tends to run with their materials:  30% Wool, 50% Poly, 20% Acrylic.  For the sheepskin collar double breasted jacket, I know… I know…  And no I didn’t hit my head.  Maybe less than a tenth of you would even consider it.  But it’s got an old Hollywood luxury feel to it.  This seems to be what Zara excels in.  Stuff that’s maybe just a step over the line for many, at a relatively affordable price.
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The Trench:  Double Breasted Trench w/ Hood – $189.00

And this could be about as perfect as a trench gets.  The hood looks like it buttons off?  Maybe?  That’s key.  2/3 cotton with the rest poly so the water should bead up instead of soak in.
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The Work Bag:  Buffalo Leather Retro Brief – $189.00

The detachable rucksack  conversion straps in the back are unnecessary and it’s going to be a little bulky for many, but overall not a bad looking leather brief for under $200.
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The Sweater and Shirt: Merino Wool Sweater – $59.90 | Contrast Twill Shirt – $49.90

And this is where Zara might struggle.  $60 is pretty standard for a Merino Wool sweater, and sales can drop them much, much lower at other stores.  Fifty bucks is no small asking price for a button up shirt, but at least it comes with some different details like the contrast at the placket.

Your turn guys.  What’s your immediate reaction?  Does Zara’s look appeal to you?  And for the fellas who actually do have a Zara near them, how often do you shop there and what’s your take on the quality of the clothes?  Leave it all in the comments section below…

Giltman Cole Haan Sale:  Sale Starts Tuesday July 20th 2010 – NOON ET

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It’s always worth a look when a mainstream, upscale Men’s Style brand hits Giltman.  When it’s Cole Haan and Gilt says they’ll have accessories and sunglasses too… it’s something you’re first in line for right when the sale launches.

Cole Haan does way more than shoes, and they do those “other” things really quite well.  Take a look at the Aviators and Gloves that showed up in their summer sale from not too long ago.  They’re simple, classic, and have just enough extras to make them interesting.

Cole Haan is owned by Nike and has been since 1988, but they were around long before the Nike Folks ever started making Basketball Shoes.  Here’s the introductory preview text you can find on Giltman:

Founded in Chicago in 1928 by Trafton Cole and Eddie Haan, the namesake label, which originated as a men’s shoe collection aesthetically influenced by the sophistication of the jazz scene, has since expanded to produce vintage-inspired leather bags, thick belts and classic aviator sunglasses.

Sure their bread and butter is shoes, (which even got a little Presidential love lately) but here’s to hoping Giltman has more than a few bags, belts, and sunglasses up for sale as well.  Sale Launches on Tuesday 7/20 at Noon ET, sharp.

Palladium Pampa Hi – Gray Canvas $60.00 | Leather SALE $49.99 (reg. $85.00)

If you live in a decent sized city that sees weather from time to time, you need a pair of go-to shoes when the climate turns to crap.  Muddy days, wet days, ugly days.  You’re not going to want to wear a pair of chucks or wingtips outside.

Sure you’ll want something waterproof (which these aren’t) if you’re shoveling snow or hiking through muddy foothills, but if you’re just trying to get to the store to grab a six pack… then these boots from the French shoe company Palladium are perfect.

The company was originally formed to make  vulcanized rubber airplane tires.  Palladium started putting canvas bands between the layers of rubber, and those materials made the transition to their shoe business once they started making boots for the French Foreign Legion.

The boots are pretty simple.  Rubber bottoms, canvas or leather uppers.  Aggressive traction pattern.  They look like a cross between PF Flyers and Merrells.  Which is the perfect midpoint for those fall, winter, and spring days where Mother Nature is challenging you, but you’re just not in the mood to take her on full bore.

$60.00 for Gray Canvas
$49.99 for Brown Leather (Limited Sizes)
$55.00 for Green Canvas